Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good God I'm confused now !!!

Every time I talk to someone new I get told something different. I'd pull my hair out but I don't have any :)

People are talking about different coloured tops of injectors being different flow rates within certain types of injector categories now.

If I could just figure out exactly what to use to try to get around 220 - 230rwkw from my stock RB20DET engine, with chipped ECU, FMIC and a GT2530 running 1.2bar while maintaining a respectable fuel economy, I'd be as happy as a pig in $hit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/
Share on other sites

RX7 injectors depending on year had different impedences, but were all 550cc.

When talking to the wrecker/shop whatever, tell them you are after high impedence RX7 Series V injectors. Use a multimeter (dont have one borrow one/you can borrow mine) and measure the impedence to be sure.

Then it is probably wise to have them cleaned and lfow tested, at which time if you dont want to put new plugs on them yourslef, then have this done at the same time by the people flow cleaning/flow testing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-396394
Share on other sites

Thanks Roy,

I think I'll check the resistance of my injectors for peace of mind as you suggested. I'm just wonder about the CC's. Do you ( or anyone else that's replied ) think that 550cc's might be too much for my set-up ( Refer Post #21 ) ?

I'm only interested in good clean, safe power out of the car. Have no interest in blowing flames out the back etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-396527
Share on other sites

Im going to be using 550cc Mazda injectors onmy RB20

i may not need injectors this big, but having some redundancy in the fuel system cant hurt. (Provided the ECU can handle larger injetors there isnt really an issue with 550cc being too much)

People dont seem to have a problem running these size injectors with factory (rechipped) computer. Injectors will only do what the ECU tells them to do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-396562
Share on other sites

True.

I'm starting to see the picture a bit clearer now that I've just finished putting some basics down on paper.

If the standards are 270cc but can flow ( in my case they must be ) around 330cc then what would be required for another 20-30rwkw should be about 480cc. So, having around 70cc + in reserve is not so bad. ( Do not quote me on these numbers as they are based upon a perfect guestimate ).

I was just told that the Injectors in an SR20 fitted in a GTi-R are 440cc standard so....550cc for a 2ltr can't be that bad !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-396659
Share on other sites

Fat32, for 220-240rwkw, get a set of GTR~444cc ones. Dont forget they are low impedance.

Im aiming for just under 200rwkw so Ca18DET ones will do me fine. I managed to find another set, so Im pretty chuffed.

All up er.. sounds like about $50 for two sets. ;) Now I just have to pay to get them clean and flowed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-397547
Share on other sites

SlowGTS-t, I've decided that I'll go for whatever plugs straight in without any other mods being required and shoot for something between 450cc and 500cc if I can, as this seems to be the only span that everyone can agree upon ( out of the 16 people I've talked to about this issue ). By this weekend I'll have something to stick in my car one way or another !

Nice score on the bargain basement buy of the CA18 injectors !

I must say, it is very considerate of nissan to allow all these parts to be shared amoungst all the different models :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-398522
Share on other sites

Sydneykid,

Do you know how the Series 5 RX7 Turbo injectors hook up to the fuel rail on an RB20 ? I've been told by AFI that the Mazda ones are "O" Ring fitment, but the RB20 ones are a barbed press on hose deal. If this is true I'll need a different fuel rail.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-404263
Share on other sites

Ca18DET ones plug straight in, no mods whatsoever er.. except for the damned resistors. Probably good to around 200rwkw.

Dunno about the plug on RB26DETT ones (~444cc) but these would be the go for ~230rwkw. (also low impedance unfortunately)

Sydneykid, a bigger fuel pump shouldnt really give any more pressure but I guess you mean bigger pump and more fuel pressure?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-404291
Share on other sites

Actually, I'm producing 201rwkw at the moment using stock injectors ( not maxing out ), GT-R Fuel Pump and a NISMO Fuel Pressure Regulator so.........I would have to think that CA18DET Injectors, being 100cc's ( nearly one third ) more flow might accomodate 230rwkw !?!?

So you do need a resistor/s for CA18DET ones ?

I thought they were High Impedance/resistance ones like the RB20DET..........( scratches head ).

So how is the resisitor/s hooked into the system ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-404312
Share on other sites

OK. Now I'm confused again !

So..... S5 RX7 Turbo injectors are the go ?

I know it appears above but, do you know how the Series 5 RX7 Turbo injectors hook up to the fuel rail on an RB20 ? I've been told by AFI that the Mazda ones are "O" Ring fitment, but the RB20 ones are a barbed press on hose deal. If this is true I'll need a different fuel rail.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-404378
Share on other sites

you got to remember they only have 4 injectors.

when buying rx7 injectors, you will need 2 check the ohm with a multimeter as roy said.

s5 are 550cc made my denso.

s4 are also 550cc but earlier model s4 are low impedence.

People say there red tops others say there purple tops.

dont worry about injector colour tops.

Just beware as i seen a few people buying the wrong injectors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-404382
Share on other sites

This is my point exactly.

I've heard too many stories about ECU's having a coniption due to wrong injector fitment.

I just wish there was someone out there who has done this and knows exactly what works and what doesn't. And what to get etc, etc, etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-404389
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Well,

I've bitten the bullet. I found out that there are injectors available ( ex Japan ) that will fit into an RB20DET without ANY modifications other than ECU resetting on the dyno so I've ordered a set.

Thanks for everyone's help and I now know a lot more about nissan injectors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-419675
Share on other sites

for around 230rwkw what is the best option for a rb20 and cost? i have been told GTR injectors wont fit... i will be running a wolf 3d v4 so the impendancew wont matter? can standard injectors be high flowed? They have Sard 550cc and 850cc injectors for $130 each at greenline... would they work?

Evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-419793
Share on other sites

Originally posted by FAT32

Good God I'm confused now !!!....

...If I could just figure out exactly what to use to try to get around 220 - 230rwkw from my stock RB20DET engine, with chipped ECU, FMIC and a GT2530 running 1.2bar while maintaining a respectable fuel economy, I'd be as happy as a pig in $hit.

This may be a bit late, but you dont need new injectors for that sort of power. Clint32 has had over 230rwkw with stock injectors, I know a guy who runs a 2530 with stock injectors and makes 230rwkw.

Just fuel pump and adj fuel pressure reg - all you need.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-419933
Share on other sites

Steve,

From what I've heard ( extensive nagging for info ) at around 1.2bar looking for 230ish rwkw's the injectors are restrictive and at their limits which "can" produce a "lean out" in the engine and cause damage so I think I'll lean to the side of caution and go ahead with the injectors.

Thanks anyways for the suggestion :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18623-injectors-rb20det/#findComment-419960
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...