Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a 34 gt-t with about 90,000 kms. Got a microtech in and with the way it's tuned at the moment i'm getting good power from when the turbo spools up (4000rpm) to redline (7000rpm). However the gain in power between 6000 and 7000 is unreal. A friend (300zx owner) tells me it is common to increase the factory redline and after reading a couple of threads it appears this is the case. Which interests me as i'd like to extend this power range.

So basically I'm asking if i can increase the redline, and if so, what's a safe limit.

R34 gt-t

Stock rb25det neo

650cc injectors

600hp garret turbo

hybrid intercooler

bosch fuel pump

splitfire coils

greddy intake manifold

3 inch dump with 3.5 inch rest of exhaust

Basically everything without touching the internals. Currently running 308 rwkw on 18 psi boost. If you need more info let me know.

Any opinions are welcome.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186244-increase-redline/
Share on other sites

After my car was tuned i noticed my rev limit was set to 7500rpm.

I dont hit the limiter often,it might happen when boost comes on in first and my foot is on the floor but i normally change before then anyway.

But to be on the safe side i might lower it to 7200rpm.

I rev mine to 7800 rpm, it starts to run out of puff by then anyway. I do however run a set of cams. Standard bottom end.

Maybe with that turbo you might try dropping in a set of sticks, make the power a bit earlier and not have to rev so hard.

308 rwkw might be leaning on the bottom end a bit, but R34s do run GTR rods, so maybe not as much as we think.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • If by axles you mean driveshafts, they're supposed to have play in them. They are not hard to recondition, it's just pulling apart the cv's, cleaning them and regreasing, fit new boots. I've only rebuilt one set and there was fk-all wear in them, still running just fine 8 years later.
    • Note, the aluminium bit that screws in the end that you have to remove to dismantle the rack is single use as it's punch-marked, it will strip when you unscrew it, and then you have to flatten the notch in the steel rack body, screw in a new aluminium end when rebuilding, then punch-mark it again once assembled. it is also 'somewhat tricky' to refit the rack>steering wheel linkage gear as it needs to be set to the right preloads etc. A rebuild is probably something that's better just given to a steering shop for a couple of hundred, unless you're mad-keen to do it yourself. 
    • Do you have the workshop Manuel? Sorry that's a Spanish waiter...I mean, manual? Some relevant pages>
    • How much have you lowered?  I had 350Z springs in the rear and was able to pull the camber into factory spec with the factory arms on the rear, obviously the front ran negative camber as it isn't adjustable, but rotating the wheels regularly evened out the wear.
×
×
  • Create New...