Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes just go try it there take a socket with you... will only take 10mins max to change it

they will gladly take it back if it isn't a good fit

i dont know why it touched my crossover pipe... maybe i have something funky going on with my engine height ???

they touched my crossover pipe so i returned it, tried another one and the same thing

the actual pipe or the clamps on the pipe? u may have to move the clamps around on the piping as they usually come pretty close.

theres really not much to strut braces really, as long as they fit they will do the job. its metal holding the 2 strut towers, not much that can go wrong really.

yeah they do f**k all anyway. unless they are weled and made from 50x50 steel.
yes. they look cool. :D

Are you saying there's no point in fitting a strut tower brace? That they do nothing to help improve handling?

I'm not trying to be a jerk, serious question. I'm just wanting to know your reasons.

When I fitted mine, it made quite a noticeable difference to handling. I'm sure others would say the same.

Edited by KeyMaker

I'm gonna get a strut brace too, JustJap sounds like a good choice for the price. Yeh, for what it does there's not much point spending double or more on a hectic brand.

I have an engine damper- its bracket is bolted onto the right strut, when i put my strut brace over it will it cause problems because it's a few mm higher on that side?

I'm gonna get a strut brace too, JustJap sounds like a good choice for the price. Yeh, for what it does there's not much point spending double or more on a hectic brand.

I have an engine damper- its bracket is bolted onto the right strut, when i put my strut brace over it will it cause problems because it's a few mm higher on that side?

Nah it'll be right aye.

I'm gonna get a strut brace too, JustJap sounds like a good choice for the price. Yeh, for what it does there's not much point spending double or more on a hectic brand.

I have an engine damper- its bracket is bolted onto the right strut, when i put my strut brace over it will it cause problems because it's a few mm higher on that side?

as long as the thread is long enough, i would bolt the engine dampner on top of the strut brac mount rather than underneath

lol

strut brace do f**k all! even 3 point ones like my tomei , dont do much at all

image006rd3.jpg

I beg too differ.

The usual strut brace design links (RHS to LHS) the top suspension mounting points and effectively doubles the rigidity of them. By reducing the flex, this stops changes in the suspension geometry, mostly camber. The springs and stabiliser bars work exactly as they did before, so there is no reduction in roll. The improved in handling comes from helping to maintain the static wheel elignment settings when the suspension is moving and the chassis flexing.

On R32/33/34 Skylines (2 door & 4 door) and equivalent Stageas, the front strut brace actually serves to effectively link the upper control arm inner mounting points to each other (RHS to LHS). This is because the upper corntol arms are actually mounted to the inner guard (chassis). You can see this by simply looking through the front wheel arches. So a front strut brace does serve quite a usefull purpose in helping to control the suspension geometry.

On the rear (of these models) this is simply not the case, the upper control arm inner mounting mounts are mounted to the sub frame, not the chassis. Adding a rear strut brace to the chassis between the rear shock towers, doesn't help the rigidity of the sub frame. You can also confirm this for yourself by loooking through the rear wheel arch and examining the upper control arm mounting points. Then compare this to where the strut brace actually mounts. Therefore the effect of fitting a strut brace to the rear is much, much less than the front.

:) cheers :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...