Jump to content
SAU Community

Strange Noise From Hks 2530kai

EVL-R33

By EVL-R33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

EVL-R33 Proficient

EVL-R33

Posted
Posted

Lately when my 33 comes on boost, I hear a strange whistling noise coming from my HKS 2530kai turbo, not sure if its a hose or the turbine itself.. The turbo is only 1 year old and I only boost it to around 16psi, so I wouldnt think that its the end of the turbo, must be something else.. Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186377-strange-noise-from-hks-2530kai/
Share on other sites
Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted

im assuming it didnt do it always but?

My old turbo made a whistly type noise but in hindsight it was more of a whir...it eventually broke a shaft due to an imbalance.

The new 3076R that is on there now with the antisurge does however make a genuine whistle..kinda like a truck

chzz Collaborator

chzz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Even one of the 33's i had with the same turbo made a similar noise its kind of nice though............So many people said my turbo on its way out..but i been thrsahing it with 16psi but still goes healthy..........new owner still happy

Edited by chzz
EVL-R33 Proficient

EVL-R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
It's the anti surge mod on the front of the compressor housing. Makes it whistle like a mofo

yes i know this, its a loud whistling sound when it comes on boost, but its a different noise, its never made this noise before..

What power are you putting out on 16psi? And when do you get full boost by on the 25?

233rwkw.. installing PFC + HC, Bosch 023 fuel pump and Z32 AFM on Friday, hoping to get around 250-260rwkw.. Full boost hits at around 3500rpm(very responsive)..

Anyone had this problem before? I don't think the turbo is on its way out, as its only 1 year old.. :S

Edited by EVL-R33
limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted

Have a look at the 4 bolts that on the manifold to turbo flange...those bolts work themselves loose over time as well especially if you do not have the locking tabs on it...my first guess is that its leaking through that gasket...

EVL-R33 Proficient

EVL-R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Have a look at the 4 bolts that on the manifold to turbo flange...those bolts work themselves loose over time as well especially if you do not have the locking tabs on it...my first guess is that its leaking through that gasket...

yeh this has happened to me before, and ive put on locking tabs.. also that gasket from the exhaust manifold to turbo is new..

the noise is like a high pitch surge, and comes on at around 7 - 10 psi.. before that i cant hear it.. the car still goes fine..

limpus Mentor

limpus

Posted
Posted

Had the same problem on my car...locking tabs were there and gasket was newish...only got that funny surging whistling sound at above 12psi...i re-tightened the living daylights out of the nuts and put the tabs back on and the sound went away...it might be worth a shot...good luck...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Murray_Calavera
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      No Voltage At Fuel Pump

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...