Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

finally getting to stage where I can get the my GTR changed into ACT rego.

the only problem is I have 2 sets of wheels choices to get over th pits with, which one would be more likley to pass?

I have a set of TE37's 17x9+15 with 245/45R17 which stick alittle past the guards

or

a set of TSW REVO's 17x7.5+?? with 215/45R17 which stick inside the guard abit.

Which one do you think would be better to go over the pits with?

(P.S. both wheels clear the brakes)

cheers

Michael

P.S. still thinking of a good name to replace YAF28F.

Hey Michael,

the TE37's will not pass anything that sits outside the guard is an instant fail. put the 17x7.5's on. it will not matter if they are in the guard quite a bit.

cheers

Not quite Cef11e..

You'll also need to ensure that with the wheels sitting in the guard a fair bit that they DO NOT come in contact (foul) with anything at full lock both ways.

As in, if it just touches any part of the guard, then it's also an instant fail.

So the wheel needs to be able to full lock left and right without touching anything.

The wheel and tyre must not foul any part of the body or suspension under all operating conditions.

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow.../vsi09_rev4.pdf

Edited by Ecstasy

it depends if the wheels increase or decrease the track of the car. you only get a certain amount of mm each way. PM Bluprint about it. he is still dealing with a similar problem and will know alot more about it than me...

you can increase track by 25mm (from memory) and diameter by +/-14mm

Going through engineering on another car at the moment. track is measured from the centre of the wheel,

so widths and offsets can make a big difference here as to what can and cant pass. The usual, rubbing, sticking outside guard etc. also applies to this

Wow, thanks for this, Might have to take the time to fit all 4 wheels on for the TSW to see if it rubs against anything first.

I'm hoping the width of the tyre won't fail as standard R32 GTR tyres are 225 and I'll be using 215's

maybe it's time to invest in a set of stockers.

one other interesting thing is that all 4 wheels must be the same width e.g. 17x7 front and back or you have to get an engineers certificate like i did to run larger wheels on the rear e.g. 17x7 front 17x8 rear, note this is only if the car was originally sold with this setup it dose not apply to allot of newer cars

Okay, rather than saying stuff without backing it up, here is probably the best thing I can do..

www.rta.nsw.gov.au - VSI 09 - Guidelines for alternative wheels and tyres (Nov 2003)

From -

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow...si/vsi_dl1.html

Edited by Ecstasy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...