Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

i copped some bad news the other day.... :domokun:

I bought my GTR from Melb in February, cheap with suspicions of a bingle as i only paid 52k for a Black 99 GTR with 37,000kms?? (seven months ago this was cheap, my how quickly times change)

Anyhow......

The front driver side wheel has had a hit (sits in guard an inch further forward) causing the wishbone to slightly bend a degree and a very minor kink in the chassis rail (2 degrees).

To all those who know the 34 gtr, there isnt an ounce of movement or adjustment in the front suspension at all for this prob. :P

It may cost me $2000 to get it on a chassis straightner but im still not guarenteed it will fix the slight 'pull to the left' under load and braking.

Not to mention i just cant look at her again in the same light knowing her previous owner hit her.

My question is, i have a C-West bodykit on order, Nismo Z-tune carbon fibre bonnet and other huge plans for this car but now i question whether this should be the car to receive such an expensive makeover or wether to sell and start fresh on another? so far i have only done the power fc d-jetro.

Oh yeah.... and my missus is preganent, i have a fear that if a sell this one she wont allow me to buy another, but she has given up trying to make me sell this one.

Is a broken one better than no one?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186448-to-sell-or-to-mod-my-crashed-gtr/
Share on other sites

i say keep it.... it's not that bad really (by the sounds of it)

good excuse to spend money on it and improve suspension etc...

plus if u go to a good shop they should be able to straighten it like new...

Are you sure its chassis damage?

I have seen several crashed Skylines (GTS-GTR-GTS4) and quite often its other parts that are bent out of shape. Normally i would first look at lower arm, castor rod and castor rod bracket (box section). It may well be fixable, even by using alignment aids like camber bushes, cator bushes etc. Always hard to say with out looking at it though...which id be happy to do if you like.

Just an option.

Cheers

Brad

Are you sure its chassis damage?

I have seen several crashed Skylines (GTS-GTR-GTS4) and quite often its other parts that are bent out of shape. Normally i would first look at lower arm, castor rod and castor rod bracket (box section). It may well be fixable, even by using alignment aids like camber bushes, cator bushes etc. Always hard to say with out looking at it though...which id be happy to do if you like.

Just an option.

Cheers

Brad

Hey Brad, your opinion would be much apreciated! i am going to attend the country cruise on the 30th,

if you are there i wouldnt mind you driving it to see what you think.

the panel beater said leave it..... but i think the 'pulling to the left' sometimes dangerously takes over when giving it a real hard time.

If you not coming to cruise im local to you.

thx

Hey Brad, your opinion would be much apreciated! i am going to attend the country cruise on the 30th,

if you are there i wouldnt mind you driving it to see what you think.

the panel beater said leave it..... but i think the 'pulling to the left' sometimes dangerously takes over when giving it a real hard time.

If you not coming to cruise im local to you.

thx

I will be at the cruise and will be happy to take a look, and if need be give it a drive to see how bad it is. It may be as serious as needing chassis repair but if we can work with it and get around it and get the car back to an acceptable level with out spending every dollar you have on it, then i think we need to have a go at it! Its an awesome looking car and would be a shame if you sold it (especially if your wife may not let you have another :whistling: )

Ill be driving a Silver R33 GTST (Rare car i know) youll know my car when you see it :P

See you there!

keep it.

you would be lucky to find another GTR34 at that good price.

its hard to know a proper history for imports so we can never now 100% how the car was treated.

keep it and fix her up.

once its fixed i dont think it will be pulling tot he left. what did u hit if you dont mind me asking???

with my previous car i was pushed of the road and hit a curb at 80ks which snaped my 18" rims, oput a nice kink on my strut and and very nick kink on my control arm. now allw as fixed apart from the control arm and that caused the car to behave different and pull to the left (where the accident happened) after getting that check and replaced problem was solved

so when you get yours fixed check everything possiable. whishbone, tie rods, struts, upper and lower control arm. whatever is holding the suspension togather just go over it making sure all is well.

its only a little thing so dont get to stressed about ti

you have a black GTR34

dont sell it

if you want i will happily trade my R33 GTST for your GTR and fix it lol

do the make over and fix her up

I didnt hit her ashneel. her ex hit her.

I had the car M.O.T. inspected in Melb whilst i was in Perth. The police inspection found 'NO ACCIDENT DAMAGE' so i paid the dude a hefty deposit.

When i saw the car for the first time it was TRUE LOVE :) i was at a strange train station in taralgon? and it was like what i think HEROIN would be like...I was heading for Victoria at 150kph before i started noticing things(coming down).

dumb i know.....but the skyline made me do it.

i imported a r32 with imports101 my r32 sedan hit a pole in japan,i dont blame them. and chassis rail was bent and front left wheel sits further back didn realise until my 18s rubbed on 1 side but not the other. but turns out when i got under their i noticed they used an s13 control arm to make it drive straight. maybe you could look in something like that mate.and it did pass compliance and pits haha

my mate hit a couple of curbs whilst drifting on the street on both sides of his 32. this made the wheels sit back alot really really noticble.. what we did was by second hand caster rods and lower control arms and fixed her oursleves in about 2 hours or so... for both sides. as he did both side on different occasions.. stopped th pull and we had the work checked over by a suspension guy later on and said all looked fine.. so it might be an easy fix like that

Brad had a look 4 me and he is gonna fit Poly nylathane castor bushes which should help the cause.

The wheel that sits forward in the guards has a genuine gtr arm.

The other side (thats evenly spaced in the guards) is aftermarket? wierd.

Replacing the control arm is out of the question coz they are alloy and big $$. the 34R arms arnt straight like 32/33 so you cant tell if they are bent anyway.

have to see how it goes.

i had a prang in my 32 a year ago front passenger side (stupid woman in an x-trail pulled out in front of me) and now my front left wheel sits forward a little also pulls to the left under braking any ideas on what to do to fix that?

i had a prang in my 32 a year ago front passenger side (stupid woman in an x-trail pulled out in front of me) and now my front left wheel sits forward a little also pulls to the left under braking any ideas on what to do to fix that?

Without seeing it, i will have a guess and say that your lower arm may be bent, or the box section where the castor rod is bolted to has been damaged.

I am a little confused how the damage has made the wheel move forward though? That doesnt really make a great deal of sense to me. As for pulling left under brakes, my guess is there may be something like a sterering rack end bent or something similar causing a bumpsteer type of effect.

Edited by R DIRTY 3
Without seeing it, i will have a guess and say that your lower arm may be bent, or the box section where the castor rod is bolted to has been damaged.

I am a little confused how the damage has made the wheel move forward though? That doesnt really make a great deal of sense to me. As for pulling left under brakes, my guess is there may be something like a sterering rack end bent or something similar causing a bumpsteer type of effect.

yeah i got a new lower control arm when i got it fixed and also got the wheels aligned but still pulls a bit not sure why i totaly replaced all of the suspension on that side so maybe its the steering rack didnt check that

My front wheels are offset differently on each side. The drivers side wheel sits a little bit further out than the left, its probably only about 8-10mm but I noticed it one day. I have a wierd lean in my car, most time I have to pull to the right to get it to go straight other times its left and sometimes I don't need to correct it at all. Brad had checked my alignment twice and he thinks its the tyres, I still rekon its something that a jig needs to fix, but thats costly and I want new rims damnit :):P

I have to get it on a jig sometime to see if it can be straightened.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...