Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest 40th-edition

my vehicle has knocks in rear since i bought it so put on hoist the other day to give it a good looking over.

found the inner rack end on both sides has about 3mm play.. it was about even on both sides so i was wondering if this is normal or not??

anyone know? cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186670-rear-tierods-excessive-play/
Share on other sites

yes, story of my life!! f**king things. i still havent got round to doing mine cos the driveshafts are siezed in lol. you need a press. from ones ive done before it takes 5ton to get them moving and then a solid 1.5-2 tone to push them out. so a gear puller aint gonna do it lol

Guest 40th-edition

the problem is the inner and maby outer rear rack ends.

i checked the balljoints, its when you pull out on the back of the tyre.

the HICAS lock bar uses the joints still?? doesnt it?

where would i find them aftermarket?

thanks heaps for the help, cheers

the problem is the inner and maby outer rear rack ends.

i checked the balljoints, its when you pull out on the back of the tyre.

the HICAS lock bar uses the joints still?? doesnt it?

where would i find them aftermarket?

thanks heaps for the help, cheers

yeah the lock bar uses the existing rack ends, just replaces the rack, so if the ball joints are shagged the lock bar won't help.

I've only had inners die on me. T04GTR has on going issue with the outer ones from memory.

ive had a couple of inner ones die on me in my cefiro, but not the R32... go figure, both cars see a lot of track use, and the hicas arm really does seem to be fairly weak.

I have heard that R33 ones fit into an r32 and are bigger/stronger? Can anyone shed some light?

If you like frigging around you can press out the ball joint and fit a s13 type bush, convert to a s13 c-shape rack end bracket and use a threaded tie rod end knuckle. I made a set up using R33 front tie rods for extra strength and used moon face spiro-bush inserts instead of the rubber bush.

i will cobble together a rough pic in paint :D

post-34927-1191218018_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • We have a huge update coming in the next few months, version 5 of Invision will be released. I'm holding off any changes until after this change as I'm not sure what features will be removed or introduced.
    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...