Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, what standard swaybars from other model skylines can fit the r32 gtst?

its a 4 dr if it makes any difference.

im referring to R32/R33/R34 GTR's cause they're bigger then GTST.

can i use front/rear swaybars from the above mentioned models in my r32 4door gtst??

i tried searching but all came up was aftermarket swaybars.

thanks for any info!

Edited by whyte
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186755-what-swaybars-can-fit-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

dont waist your time with second hand ones from a gtr32 33 etc, there all hollow and yes it will be better but your $$$ will be better spent on adjustable ones for your car, if you cant find any try a company called selbys in NSW, they used to make whitelines bars...you can send your original bars to them and they will send you what ever size/adjustable/colour you want.

i know the rear will fit not sure about the front

but if u find them cheap i think they r worth it

just because they r hollow does not mean they r not as good as a solid bar

Edited by KLR33

not saying a hollow bar is crap at all, a bar is a bar hollow or solid just made of spring steel,

just saying in stead of scatching his head to find out what will fit and were to get it and then how much..why not get some that are made for his car with new d bushes etc etc...

Rear is interchangeable with R32 GTR, which will also fit on S13's and Cefiros as well. I believe front will fit as well, but by putting a large front swaybar in will cause the car to understeer if the selection is too large when compared to the size of the rear swaybar and choice of spring/damper rates

R32 GTR rear sway bar will fit a GTS, the fronts are not interchangable

because the GTR is 4WD and GTS isn't.I think the rear GTS sway bar

is 16mm and the GTR is 25mm it is a worthy budget upgrade.(Thicker rear

sway bar less understeer) I looked into this not that long ago and I

ended up buying whiteline adjustable sway bars front and rear from

sydneykids group buy.I highly recommend this as I improved on

my lap time by 3 seconds a lap through just this mod.The car feels

very stable and flat and firm but not over the top,honestly spend

the money and you won't look back.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
×
×
  • Create New...