Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys and girls.

Im looking at spending about 15k on a skyline, but it has to be non turbo as im a p plater. Just wondering who has one and what did you choose, gts or gts-4. And also the best place to pick one up, either private sale or dealer, or any of your mates that want to sell.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187328-gts-or-gts4/
Share on other sites

GTS ftw mate.

Unless you plan on going to the snow every year, the GTS4 would be the choice.

15k would be overkill - but good to see you have got $$ saved - r32 and r33 gts models can get quite cheaply, 7k to 10k is a "general"range

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187328-gts-or-gts4/#findComment-3381566
Share on other sites

yeah go the GTS, it'll be cheaper and for that amount you should be able to pickup a 4-door non turbo R34

The R33 GTS4, which I guess you are looking at, is very very heavy and slow, the R32 only have a 4wd turbo GTS4, otherwise if you were lucky you could find the 2.6L Autech skyline, GT-B i think it was called, 4wd rb26de, quite quick apparently, but you won't get one for cheap :S and it'll be too hard to find, i don't know of anyone with one in Australia or New Zealand :S

So either R33 GTS or R34, depending on budget and if you want 2-door coupe ro 4-door sedan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187328-gts-or-gts4/#findComment-3382670
Share on other sites

I wonder if you could get a non turbo R34 for $15k?

thats wat i was thinking

personally i'd never spend that much on a non turbo skyline unless maybe an r34 if you have to get a non turbo

i remember seeing a fresh import r34 n/a manual clean good Ks going for 16,000 on another forum and this was a while back.

don't bother with the R33s dude they are gutless, gts or gts4 same shit. good cruisers though...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187328-gts-or-gts4/#findComment-3383400
Share on other sites

You haven't specified if you prefer one particular model of Skyline, but if you like R32s you might also want to keep an eye out for the GTS25, which is a non-turbo RB25DE. It has the advantage of a bit more torque than the RB20DE in the R32 GTS, and is still P-plate friendly.

Otherwise, if you're happy to spend the whole 15K on just the car, and wait a while to save up for other mods, then I'd personally go the R34 GT.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187328-gts-or-gts4/#findComment-3386398
Share on other sites

Im on my p's, so there isn't alot i can get away with.

Still cant find a decent r33 or r34 for under 15. come on guys, i have cash to spend. throw me a car and ill probly go done ;)

Thanks guys

Dave

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t186452.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...html&hl=r34

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...html&hl=r34

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187328-gts-or-gts4/#findComment-3387183
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...