Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Its going to be fairly hard to get a smooth power delivery when that thing comes on boost, might be able to play with the EBC and get it to come on boost slower smoothing it out a bit at a slight loss of power.

Hmm, yeh don't really know how to operate the EBC yet, other than changing boost settings! lol so I assume you can put boost on different gears or something like that? But really I am not after high KW or anything, I want a car that drives well on the streets! :whoops:

Its going to be fairly hard to get a smooth power delivery when that thing comes on boost, might be able to play with the EBC and get it to come on boost slower smoothing it out a bit at a slight loss of power.

Only certain EBC's have that ability, I know my profec e-01 has a gain setting. The higher the number, the slower the turbo reaches boost threshold, this also good for reducing the risk of boost spike. (highly recommended for 14psi+ applications)

I guess the report wasn't too good. heh

HAHAHHAHA :):rofl:

Thats the carsale ad that I bought it from!! He hasn't had the time to take off the ad yet as he hasn't got access to a computer! :rofl::)

Taking it in for a full service this week, so I'll see how it goes! :thumbsup:

Hey nice buy dude. Very nice car.

Welcome to the forums.

Take it to a workshop and get it tuned. If it was tuned to run on 18psi, and you're running 10psi it may be using more petrol on lower boost. For the same amount of rev's it could be dumping as much petrol as was needed when it was running 18psi at any given point in the rev range.

I know if I run 14psi on my car and drive off boost in traffic I use more petrol per km than if I run 18psi and run a few laps Eastern Creek or OP.

Hey nice buy dude. Very nice car.

Welcome to the forums.

Take it to a workshop and get it tuned. If it was tuned to run on 18psi, and you're running 10psi it may be using more petrol on lower boost. For the same amount of rev's it could be dumping as much petrol as was needed when it was running 18psi.

I know if I run 14psi on my car and drive off boost in traffic I use more petrol per km than if I run 18psi and run a few laps Eastern Creek or OP.

Yeh, thanks mate! :)

Ahhh, thats interesting, I have pretty much been running lowest setting the whole time... so do you think I should tune it for more low boost settings, if I intend to use it around 10-15?

Oh yeh, finally I have a bit more clue of what the PowerFC is saying... :laughing-smiley-014: I get a knock of 1 on idle... and on boost 2nd gear at around 6000RPM I get a knock of 10-14... looking at the EBC boost starts to kick in 4,000RPM :-o !! and goes pretty much to redline

Yeh, thanks mate! :)

Ahhh, thats interesting, I have pretty much been running lowest setting the whole time... so do you think I should tune it for more low boost settings, if I intend to use it around 10-15?

Oh yeh, finally I have a bit more clue of what the PowerFC is saying... :laughing-smiley-014: I get a knock of 1 on idle... and on boost 2nd gear at around 6000RPM I get a knock of 10-14... looking at the EBC boost starts to kick in 4,000RPM :-o !! and goes pretty much to redline

The turbo you've got is more efficient at higher boost though, isn't it?

Knock 10-14 is acceptable. >30, jump off the go pedal.

Basically the best idea is to have the boost set to what is safe for your engine, then tune to suit, and then use your right foot to control how much boost you use.

For example, if you tune your car for 14psi, and then drop max boost to 7psi, all that means is when you've got your foot flat and you're reving out, your injector duty cycle at any given RPM will be the same as if there was more air being pushed through. Which means you'll be running rich. If that makes sense.

The turbo you've got is more efficient at higher boost though, isn't it?

Knock 10-14 is acceptable. >30, jump of the go pedal.

Basically the best idea is to have the boost set to what is safe for your engine, then tune to suit, and then use your right foot to control how much boost you use.

For example, if you tune your car for 14psi, and then drop max boost to 7psi, all that means is when you've got your foot flat and you're reving out, your injector duty cycle at any given RPM will be the same as if there was more air being pushed through. Which means you'll be running rich. If that makes sense.

Yeh, I think the turbo is capable of 30psi, lol but cuz I am not sure what internals its got, I would asssume its stock internals, so wouldn't be too good if I run it on 15-18 for daily?

Oh and that makes perfect sense, I was actually wondering why I was smelling so much petrol when I give it some!! and I thought it was out of tune badly... but now it seems, I am running too low boost for the tune... I believe it was tune for 18. Gonna take it for a dyno as well this week to check if the A/R is all good.

d00dz - thanks for the link! much appreciated mate! :)

congrats mate, that is neat and a very good price.. im pretty sure u wont find one with thos mods for that price.. congrats..

the shuddering is almost 100% the front brake discs. get them checked out...

Car is at Bel at the moment, just got a call today saying a compression test was done showing from what I heard 150 or thereabouts on all 6 cylinders...

Should get dyno charts on Friday or so.. :thumbsup:

Hey nice buy dude. Very nice car.

Welcome to the forums.

Take it to a workshop and get it tuned. If it was tuned to run on 18psi, and you're running 10psi it may be using more petrol on lower boost. For the same amount of rev's it could be dumping as much petrol as was needed when it was running 18psi at any given point in the rev range.

I know if I run 14psi on my car and drive off boost in traffic I use more petrol per km than if I run 18psi and run a few laps Eastern Creek or OP.

It shouldn't do that. There's something wrong with your tune Wil. The amount of fuel put in is based on the airflow. Less boost, less air, less fuel.

The turbo you've got is more efficient at higher boost though, isn't it?

Knock 10-14 is acceptable. >30, jump off the go pedal.

Basically the best idea is to have the boost set to what is safe for your engine, then tune to suit, and then use your right foot to control how much boost you use.

For example, if you tune your car for 14psi, and then drop max boost to 7psi, all that means is when you've got your foot flat and you're reving out, your injector duty cycle at any given RPM will be the same as if there was more air being pushed through. Which means you'll be running rich. If that makes sense.

I had 189 knock the other day on the Wisemans cruise. 30 is nothing. Above 60 on more than an isolated occasion is cause for slight concern. Less than that is nothing.

BTW, knock values are the subject of a bit of debate, this is only my opinion. Obviously Wil is a big softy and I am a massive hard arse.

I had 189 knock the other day on the Wisemans cruise. 30 is nothing. Above 60 on more than an isolated occasion is cause for slight concern. Less than that is nothing.

BTW, knock values are the subject of a bit of debate, this is only my opinion. Obviously Wil is a big softy and I am a massive hard arse.

Don't you have a built engine though?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...