Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Both my cars are wearing out now, and was wondering which option i should take?

1)get some crappy pads for time being till i can afford decent ones(front and rear)

2)get some really good front pads now, and wait a while longer and get the rears as money is an option

3) you tell me

Both my cars are wearing out now, and was wondering which option i should take?

1)get some crappy pads for time being till i can afford decent ones(front and rear)

2)get some really good front pads now, and wait a while longer and get the rears as money is an option

3) you tell me

G`day `nsta` HOW about rebond + you may have a choice of different bonding`s,i have series 2 stagea & have had to do this as gen nissan pad`s are outrageeous $,$60 against $192+get screwed tax,iam in perth,hope this will help,chuckie.

Both my cars are wearing out now, and was wondering which option i should take?

1)get some crappy pads for time being till i can afford decent ones(front and rear)

2)get some really good front pads now, and wait a while longer and get the rears as money is an option

3) you tell me

What sort of pads are you after? As has been said, Lucas are a VERY good pad, good for 650 degrees, and VERY cheap. Its what I rally on, and can not justify spending the stupid amounts of money that ' high performance street cars' :bunny: seem to spend on theirs.

Above that you've got QFM's A1RM semi race pad (50-780) for $110 a set... Let us what sort of pads you're after, and stop spending stupid amounts of money on sbs/hawk/pagid/endless rubbish when there's better and cheaper options out there anyway.

More importantly what fluid are you running?

Get some good fronts first (since the front is where the majority of the braking occurs). Maybe also adjust your driving style so you don't keep jumping on the brakes at every opportunity, which will extend the life of the brakes.

Can I be blunt and say its your brakes man. Its really the only safety feature on a skyline... You NEED to do it properly. As has been said tho, the cheaper pads arent always bad. I've got some lucas ones, they are pretty good.

I got a full seat of pads for my 33 for $90 from my bullseye guy, a brand called 'Prime', they seem to be ok I'm running them on rda rotors... no squeals, just feels normal, not amazing but decent... ordered them in one day got em the next...

just done front and rear pads today, got some lucas ones, my olds ones were down to nothing. One slight problem, i went to fill my brake reservoir to find that its nearly going to overflow out!, what causes this, and how can i remove the excess fluid?

One slight problem, i went to fill my brake reservoir to find that its nearly going to overflow out!, what causes this, and how can i remove the excess fluid?
Think about it. You've just pushed a caliper piston back into a cylinder containing brake fluid. The cylinder is now smaller - some of its volume is now filled with piston. The brake fluid - like all fluids - is incompressible. Where is the fluid going to go?

Bleed the excess fluid out through a bleed nipple at one of the calipers.

Interested to know where you can get both the QFM pads from and the Lucas ones (located in Sydney btw)

If someone could PM me with details would much appreciate it :P

Cheers!!

Interested to know where you can get both the QFM pads from and the Lucas ones (located in Sydney btw)

If someone could PM me with details would much appreciate it :(

Cheers!!

GSL RallySport does both (and lots more) of them. Although I'm in Brisbane, I specialise in mail order and my sales are pretty well split locally and interstate. Shipping to Sydney is only $7 anyway, and will still come in under what Repco/Autobarn/Bursons will charge.

PM if you like, or what are are your requirements?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...