Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

not 100% sure on that one

in the nismo catalogue, it states

Extending the effective length of genuine parts compensates for the negative camber resulting when the vehicle is lowered. this also is effective in reducing wear to the inner side of the tire.

It also says the bushes have to be pressed into the arm, so if the aftermarket bushes can be pressed into the arm i dont see why you cant used them. Also i just install those arms and was able to change my camber to -2.5degress so im guessing you can go less

also the long thing is part of a set called "Circuit Link Set"

To provide optimal camber angle, the transverse link's effective length has been extended (+4mm), and the position of the upper link's third link installation hole has been changed.

-change in camber angle, compared to std vehicle

before installation: -0.50', after installation: -1.50'

the figures above may vary by +-0.45', depending on individual vehicle characteristics

Edited by [Michael]

so you have the same arm too? before you change the arm your camber is -0.5 and now its -2.5 am i right?

My camber now is about -1.6 and i want to change it to -0.5 for the front to reduce tire wear. My objective of getting this arm was to reduce the camber from -1.6 to -0.5. Will this arm do it? Or i have to replace the arm bushes by using an aftermarket ones like whitelines or super pro? i have the same problem with the rears too. The rear ca,ber is sitting at -2.68 at the moment!! I went and bought an aftermarket rear upper link to correct that to -1 for the rears.

Im just unsure of the diameter of the super pro's bushes are the same as the nismos bushes. i hope it is. The fact is i know the JIC fron camber arm would not give you a posicitve camber at all it will give you only a negative camber.

just buy an offset bush kit from whiteline or similar. that will give you the camber change you need. :laugh: no point buying the nismo arms only to press out the bushes and buy new ones. but yes you could fit aftermarket bushes to the nismo arms if you wanted to.

yeah the nismo are not adjustable but are shorter than std ones to correct mild lowering jobs.

Nismo arms front and rear will correct alignment issues if the car is lowered (undamaged) to the minimum recommended height... which i am yet to determine :laugh: soon as i do i will post it up.

so this nismo arm should be able to fix the camber problem then. The car is actually stiing on 360mm from the center of the wheel hub to the wheel arch.

normally would these arms be lighter than the std arrms? and stronger?

so this nismo arm should be able to fix the camber problem then. The car is actually stiing on 360mm from the center of the wheel hub to the wheel arch.

normally would these arms be lighter than the std arrms? and stronger?

in the nismo catalogue, it has a photo on the std arms and the nismo arms, showing that the nismo arms are reinforced, so it would make them stronger, if you like i can scan the page for you

in the nismo catalogue, it has a photo on the std arms and the nismo arms, showing that the nismo arms are reinforced, so it would make them stronger, if you like i can scan the page for you

iff its not too much trouble micheal for you to scan it please? Where can i get a copy of the nismo catalog? It might be handy for me later on. thanks micheal

yeah the nismo are not adjustable but are shorter than std ones to correct mild lowering jobs.

Nismo arms front and rear will correct alignment issues if the car is lowered (undamaged) to the minimum recommended height... which i am yet to determine :) soon as i do i will post it up.

wouldn't they be longer to correct too much negative camber from lowering?

it makes more sense that way...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...