Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i read it heaps and stuff - and i know most pplz will say to just do a search.

but i kinda get conflicting ideas.

whats the best way to diy clean the AFM?

- some ppl say not to use wd40 as it coats

- others say to use CRC contact cleaner or carby cleaner, others say not to?

- i read that you should spray when engine is on? wtf? coz something like it heats the element at the same time?

also, i understand its beneficial to remove the rear meshing (one closest to the turbz.

cheers, sorry about the 5000th post on this topic.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18812-afm/
Share on other sites

Does anyone know if the AFM from the S1 R33 differs from the AFM in the S2. I have just had my airbox/AFM out to clean it and apparently it looks substantially different to my friends S2 AFM.

It has a green plate on it on the bottom of the unit and seems to have a plastic shroud around two elements in the middle.

Aparently my friends S2 has only a single wire?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18812-afm/#findComment-399181
Share on other sites

I think electrical contact cleaner works best as it leaves no residue. I have heard brake cleaner to be good as well (no residue) and that carby cleaner works but leaves some residue. But don’t use WD-40 as it would contaminate the AFM rather than clean it.

I don’t think this will help too much sewid but in my 95 R33 series 1 it has two elements and a pink identification plate. One part of the element looks like a tiny resistor and the other is a flat white plate. What worries me is there is no mesh on either side of the AFM, it looks like the previous owner has removed them. I think it is fine for the mesh facing the turbo to be removed but not entirely sure of the ramifications of removing the mesh facing the air filter. I heard its better to keep the mesh facing the air filter as it changes the character of the air flow for a more accurate reading. Does anyone know if this is true and of any problems with both being removed? I have to wonder why they were both removed, possibly to reduce restrictions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18812-afm/#findComment-399708
Share on other sites

Originally posted by nismo_au

I don’t think this will help too much sewid but in my 95 R33 series 1 it has two elements and a pink identification plate. One part of the element looks like a tiny resistor and the other is a flat white plate. What worries me is there is no mesh on either side of the AFM, it looks like the previous owner has removed them. I think it is fine for the mesh facing the turbo to be removed but not entirely sure of the ramifications of removing the mesh facing the air filter. I heard its better to keep the mesh facing the air filter as it changes the character of the air flow for a more accurate reading. Does anyone know if this is true and of any problems with both being removed? I have to wonder why they were both removed, possibly to reduce restrictions?

Yeah there should be two mesh pieces. I have removed the one after the AFM but left the one facing the air filter on.

Your AFM sounds like my friends S2 AFM (pink plate). Does the element assembly/plastic part go all the way accross the pipe? Mine only goes 2/3rds of the way accross.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18812-afm/#findComment-400855
Share on other sites

Your AFM sounds like my friends S2 AFM (pink plate). Does the element assembly/plastic part go all the way accross the pipe? Mine only goes 2/3rds of the way accross.

Yeah sewid, mine is like your friends with the element plastic piece going all the way accross the pipe. My late model series 1 33 might have some series 2 parts in it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18812-afm/#findComment-404788
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...