Jump to content
SAU Community

Engineering your car's mods ??

B-Man

By B-Man,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

croat Mentor

croat

Posted
Posted

A friend of mine who is a mechanic told me a way around getting defected or at least a way of getting cops out of your engine bay. Its a hassle but i think it would work. The level to open your bonnet disconnect it, then fix it elsewhere so the original level does not work. If they ask you to pop your bonnet you simply cant. and thats not your problem. Oppinions?

wilch Grand Master

wilch

Posted
Posted
A friend of mine who is a mechanic told me a way around getting defected or at least a way of getting cops out of your engine bay. Its a hassle but i think it would work. The level to open your bonnet disconnect it, then fix it elsewhere so the original level does not work. If they ask you to pop your bonnet you simply cant. and thats not your problem. Oppinions?

They'd most probably say the car was un-roadworthy. ie. If something caught fire under there there's no way of getting an extinguisher to it. So they'd defect you for that.

wil..

wilch Grand Master

wilch

Posted
Posted

One thing about police and defects though. Personally I've not had problems with the police in my 7+ years of driving. For the majority of those years I drove a Honda Integra with cams, pod, loud exhaust, and lots of suspension mods. The car was lower than legal, the lowest point on the car being <10cm off the ground.

The car handled well. (I spent good money, on good suspension). It wasn't one of these chop the springs jobs. Sure the lowest point was <10cm off the ground but I had alot of travel in the wheels still (1990 integra had HUGE guards).

The wheels were 5 spoke, dished and only 16" in diameter, but 7.5" in width (which was 3" wider than the stock wheels). No bodykit was on the car.

Now I was pulled over once in this car. It was 2am in strathfield, and well there's a sweeping right hander which it the time I thought, "why the hell not" and heel-toed from 4th to 3rd to 2nd, and floored it around the corner. Guess what was coming the other way. The police heard me coming and they turned around and pulled me over.

I was scared/worried. Anyway, I answered all their questions and was as polite as I could be. The policeman's opening line was, "You took that corner very fast now didn't you?". My response was I didn't know what else to say. Saying "yes" is incriminating, saying "no" is flat out lying and inflamatory.

While talking to the cop I noticed that the other policeman came up the left side of my car with a torch. The guy I was talking to nodded to and motioned the other policeman to go back to the cop car. I found this weird...After talking to me and realising I wasn't being a dick, and I seemed a halfway decent and respectable person was he telling the other cop not to worry about the defects?

wil..

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted
I think if you dont wear a baseball cap you can get away without the engineer's certificate

 

my 2c

Isn't that only if you don't wear it backwards?

Backwards baseball cap is an automatic defect, isn't it? It's a weigh-bridge and pits job to clear, so I've heard...

:jk:

VL-TRBO-RB20 Grand Master

VL-TRBO-RB20

Posted
Posted

i had to get my car engineered when i bought it,

the engineer started the cert a year b4 i bought the car and because the only place in my town with a EPA printer, the printer broke so he did most of the inspection there and after i purchised my car i got it engineered he gave me a $100 discount because he started it the previous year and never got around to doing it! so it only cost me $330 instead of $440 good bloke i say!

i got it done at

Enkleman enterprises

brayside drive brayside

in melb

and colin young did mine! hes a good guy :cheers:

VL-TRBO-RB20 Grand Master

VL-TRBO-RB20

Posted
Posted

its only got the stock computer (RB20) i need to get it remapped to handle the bigger turbo and more boost i just am finding that i dont have as much power as i should...

but after the ECU its str8 to the dyno then if im still not happy a shift kit and high stall

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

I hope you mean oil catch cat. Cause if your oil cooler has a pipe that isn't connected at one end, you may find yourself without oil and motor :)

I'm going to assume you mean oil catch tank, so my suggestion would be go and grab your copies of HPI, Zoom hot4s what ever and look for articles on 180s, silvias etc (any cars with SR20s) and find the ones with oil catch tanks, have a look at how theirs are set-up. That should give you some ideas about how to make yours closed.

Richard

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

Oil catch can.

From what I know it's like an oil catch tank but it's a can instead of a tank so it's smaller.

As far as I can tell the pipe never has any oil flowing from it.. I'm not too sure to be honost what's mean to come out that pipe. I assume its oil but I can't imagine under what circumstances it would come out (i guess if the catch can/tank is full of gunk?)

But yeah I'll speak to some more mechanically minded people than I and see what I need to do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...