Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got a good mate of mine that could help you out Pete, i'll give him a call tomorrow.

yes please Chad :P

Pete, told you I can get you gyprock if you like at a nice cheap price. If you're interested, SMS me and I'll get in touch with my mate :)

thanks Luke, I did remember you.

I may be able to get the material cheap through a builder mate of mine (possibly uses CSR) but I just need a hand to do the work.....happy to pay.

Speakin of jobs, I love mine! Average around $800-$1000 weekly, freebies.. bonuses, commision, and relaxed as place to work!

Oh and guy, we have a plumber we recommend, can sms you his number tommorow if u want? Best mates with one of the workers, so does a good job if you saw we sent you!

otherwise you get a subpar job and you have to keep calling him out :);)

i also have a dyno printout thats shows i have 274rwkw and one that says 229rwkw, with no changes to the car at all just different dyno's, but my PFC says they are at 100%, so i have no idea what power reading to believe. Cant wait till saturday so i can see what the boostworks dyno says :P

yeah will be good to run against more of your peers, i was always dubious of your claimed power reading when me and Jenkies drove next to you before he had all that work done

yeah will be interesting.. What boost are u running again?

Usually it takes a good 15psi to crack 240rwkw on stock turbo's on Boostworks dyno.

260rwkw @ 15psi with cams.

Shauns dyno used to read around 10-15rwkw lower than mainlines depending on who straps it down. I'll be there on Sat but unfortunately not running. Too busy with work and cant get down to MTQ to pick up bits to fix the car. :(

ah spewn still dont get to see the sleeper on the dyno :D

***keeps typing fingers away from the$100 formal drive thingy, that thread is gonna get nasty lol***

i lol'd

Guy, what do you need done? I know a plumber (name is Adolf, lol) and he may be able to help. Did the plumbing on my bosses house down in Normanville if you are interested
Oh and guy, we have a plumber we recommend, can sms you his number tommorow if u want? Best mates with one of the workers, so does a good job if you saw we sent you!

I am building my house at Inglewood, but its been held up by 2 yrs thanks to council. The budget is very stretched (thanks to an additional yrs mortgage repayments and ever increasing prices) so I am looking for some traidies that will do cash jobs (with me doing much of the grunt work if possible). I have the underfloor plumbing done but will need to do hot and cold water plumbing next (lay 20mm Rehau hot and cold pipe, fit all noggins etc)

I have nearly got my builders licence (Site Supervisor and Contractors licence) and have had experience as a labourer for many trades, so I am attempting as much as possible myself and leaving the jobs I know I cant do to the professionals.

Can also pay in meals and booze LOL

Edited by 4door_Sleeper

lol, I've seen this come up a couple of times now whilst trolling through the main For Sale thread.

Whatever you do, never ever buy any kind of block that has been bored unless it comes with the pistons that it was bored to suit.

So many blocks for sale that have been "freshly bored" but don't come with pistons..........pistons can vary by up to .005" or more between manufacturers and even more between cast & forgies.

If you buy a block that's been bored for cast pistons and you use forged pistons (unless the forgies have clearance already built into them) you're asking for nightmares.

Forgies require more clearance than cast pistons due to heat growth.

Not only that.........you don't know who did the final hone, what stone or paper they used, and what degree cross hatch was used.

Buy pistons first, give them to the guy on the boring barr and bore to suit them with a torque plate!!

lol, I've seen this come up a couple of times now whilst trolling through the main For Sale thread.

Whatever you do, never ever buy any kind of block that has been bored unless it comes with the pistons that it was bored to suit.

So many blocks for sale that have been "freshly bored" but don't come with pistons..........pistons can vary by up to .005" or more between manufacturers and even more between cast & forgies.

If you buy a block that's been bored for cast pistons and you use forged pistons (unless the forgies have clearance already built into them) you're asking for nightmares.

Forgies require more clearance than cast pistons due to heat growth.

Not only that.........you don't know who did the final hone, what stone or paper they used, and what degree cross hatch was used.

Buy pistons first, give them to the guy on the boring barr and bore to suit them with a torque plate!!

right on!

more people getting packages....and just got an email from someone from GMH saying in the first 1/4 of next year their shutting down for 22 working days!! YIKES!!!!

Penny its probably split and i'd guess that its a press in/press out job?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...