Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone know whats happening around South rd/cross rd. Got a 7news chopper in the sky just wondering around.

EDIT: dont worry, burst water main in the middle of the rd has blown a hole in the rd lol

just came thru there coming back from Damos, 5 biker cops with laser, pulling up people for speeding over 25, had all of them looking at me like fresh meat in a lions cage, not speeding but arms length from my car with damos old front bar occupying the pass seat and back seat lol... made it thru the cage unmolested, heart was racing out of my chest, thought for sure I was done..lol

oh and it looks like they will have the road fixed up for rush hour in am, blew a hole near the caltex food mart south bound side

thanks again damo , your rims are pure porn mate :ermm:

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone can explain to me the process of "importing" a car from interstate? Thanks in advance :ermm:

i got my 34 from interstate

fresh from japan...went to melb.....the guy did all the complaince work over there.........drive her over to adelaide.......went to regency for full check......passed.......went and got her registered lol

Heres a brain teaser - problem with my daily:

Its a 1981 Toyota Corona CS

- cold start it struggles to stay on

- accelerator to the floor just to get it to idle - otherwise it would conk out if I let go

- idle while doing the above isnt stable - like its surging - sometime it conks out and have to repeat the above

- after a minute, it must of warmed up, it idles fine without accelerating

- chuck it into gear there is a high probability of it conking out and having to repeat everything above - but it doesnt take as long as when turning it on the first time

- first couple minutes of driving, accelerator is down to the floor and the car is just putting along at walking pace then it gains enough power and revs normal and is all good

Its about a 5 minute battle to keep it on every morning lol

- recently started happening when the other week the car just wouldnt start, before that the car started first time everytime and drove fine, after that day that it wouldnt turn on its been problematic ever since

- to get the car going again the points in the distributor was replaced, alternator replaced and a new battery but somehow the problem mentioned above arises

Anyone got suggestions on what could be wrong?

got the wheels on the Keto.

was lucky enough to get a really helpfull guy in repco, that sourced some wheel nuts that are nissan shape, but have toyota thread (even security nuts!)

pls ignore how filthy the old girl is... im busy saving the murray

IMG_0210.jpg

Heres a brain teaser - problem with my daily:

Its a 1981 Toyota Corona CS

- cold start it struggles to stay on

- accelerator to the floor just to get it to idle - otherwise it would conk out if I let go

- idle while doing the above isnt stable - like its surging - sometime it conks out and have to repeat the above

- after a minute, it must of warmed up, it idles fine without accelerating

- chuck it into gear there is a high probability of it conking out and having to repeat everything above - but it doesnt take as long as when turning it on the first time

- first couple minutes of driving, accelerator is down to the floor and the car is just putting along at walking pace then it gains enough power and revs normal and is all good

Its about a 5 minute battle to keep it on every morning lol

- recently started happening when the other week the car just wouldnt start, before that the car started first time everytime and drove fine, after that day that it wouldnt turn on its been problematic ever since

- to get the car going again the points in the distributor was replaced, alternator replaced and a new battery but somehow the problem mentioned above arises

Anyone got suggestions on what could be wrong?

I take it its a carbie ?, the choke is stuck, the idle circuit it dirty, air filter dirty? dirty PCV ?, vacuum leaks from dizzy to manifold, carbie vacuum advance ?

get some carb cleaning and hose it down with a fast idle after it warms up, problem solvered if its carbie, and carb doesnt need rebuild

Edited by sapphiregraphics
If anyone is interested here are some of my new tracks.

Made from scratch. no samples at all.

some weird electronic stuff. deep house. progressive. dark etc

new_house.mp3

ooh_ooh_ahh_ahh__remix1_.mp3

chocolate_chip_shit.mp3

listening too now not bad

what you use to make them

I take it its a carbie ?, the choke is stuck, the idle circuit it dirty, air filter dirty? dirty PCV ?, vacuum leaks from dizzy to manifold, carbie vacuum advance ?

get some carb cleaning and hose it down with a fast idle after it warms up, problem solvered if its carbie, and carb doesnt need rebuild

Yeap its carby, just googled it up and I reckon carby cleaner sounds like a plan - will give that a try tomorrow. Cheers :D wish the R33 was as simple and cheap to rectify problems lol

[20:31] Dohmar: http://www.smouch.net/lol/

[20:31] Cara: what is it

[20:31] Dohmar: funny site

[20:32] Dohmar: Never gonna give u uuuuuuuuup

[20:32] Dohmar: Never gonna let u dowwwwn

[20:32] Dohmar: Never gonna tuuuuuurrrrn arouuuuunnd and

[20:32] Dohmar: deserrrrt youuuuuu

[20:32] Cara: f**k U BEN

[20:32] Dohmar: rofl

>:D

-D

ahaha, much love for the rick roll, well played sir.

Yeap its carby, just googled it up and I reckon carby cleaner sounds like a plan - will give that a try tomorrow. Cheers :D wish the R33 was as simple and cheap to rectify problems lol

bet the throttle body is black inside, but should be kinda bronze coloured. just warm up the engine, after taking the air cleaner lid off, hold it at about 2k rpm and spray inside the throat of carbie, motor will try to stall, stop spraying for a min, then repeat till clean, whats left of carbie cleaner wash off the outside of carbie.

and pcv valve and put it back in. after it cools off, look to see if the plate in carb is free, top one is choke. the little holes are the vents to float bowl, and idle curcuit, if you see raw fuel pouring/sputtering out of vents in carb, you have other problems in carb.

also can be a bad electric choke?

check vacuum line to dizzy advance, plugged in?

hope that helps mate :D

safety note, do not put your face over carbie, if it backfires, you will get a face full of fire

Edited by sapphiregraphics
Awesome! just what i wanted to here after installing them in my car :D

lol, this cop was a cock to be polite about it

goin to fix it tomorrow after work, went for a drive about 8:30 down to caltex at st marys. sitting at the sturt / south rd lights, get a tap on my left window

same cop

"so, you've still got those blue lights in hey"

"ermm, ive got until friday to fix it" *casual grin on my face*

"oh...........................................................okay then" *flips his visor back down

LOL

listening too now not bad

what you use to make them

Mainly use fruity loops studio8 producer edition.

Editing is usually done with sony soundforge.

couple other smaller programs too.

its annoying because I cant upload any longer songs. or songs with more detail as they are more than 10mb.

CD will be made soon tho

lol, this cop was a cock to be polite about it

goin to fix it tomorrow after work, went for a drive about 8:30 down to caltex at st marys. sitting at the sturt / south rd lights, get a tap on my left window

same cop

"so, you've still got those blue lights in hey"

"ermm, ive got until friday to fix it" *casual grin on my face*

"oh...........................................................okay then" *flips his visor back down

LOL

guess you went past the same cops as me,,,, lol a few min from me,, arms length,,told ya so

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...