Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had a R33 come into the workshop today after getting defected. What a list to change to get through regency.

Turbo, Exhaust,wheels, coils, hicas, headlights, FPR, SAFC, BeeR, Timer, Steering wheel, horn, diff. And thats without getting the car on the hoist. Gonna take awhile.

Had a R33 come into the workshop today after getting defected. What a list to change to get through regency.

Turbo, Exhaust,wheels, coils, hicas, headlights, FPR, SAFC, BeeR, Timer, Steering wheel, horn, diff. And thats without getting the car on the hoist. Gonna take awhile.

does the owner also have a big "KICK ME" sign tattooed upon his/her genitals ?

-D

Please tell me you have seen the light?

Blue mesh rocks dude! :)

But no ... don't worry, its not going on the 33 :)

Any idea how much 19" Impuls would sell for second hand. Not sure I want to keep the impuls on the car.

condition of rims and tyres?

Rims are in good nick. Minor rash on one. Tyres are driveable, but one rear could use replacement due to camber wear. Seen these going for between $1100 (quick sale) to $1600 (sau for sale) and even $1500 (ebay).

Might throw an ad up in the FS section shortly.

Overall, car is in great condition. Interior is immaculate. Engine bay is tidy, no leaks. All panels are straight as. Interior is totally stock. Stock ride. Cops will have no problems with this 33. Only one problem ...

... previous owner before the guy I bought it off cut the reo bar. Gotta find me one of them. :)

Shopping for reo bar, bodykit, and 17"-18" rims.

Not bad!

Just having a cup of tea with some Gingernut biscuts. Yourself?

mmmm gingernut biscuits.....had an annoying headcold for a week now....starting to clear up now...every morningi wake up sounding like barry white

ruby, interested in swap for 18's of the same rim?

Have to weigh up if i want the cost of 19" tyres to replace first though.

I would be interested yes! For the same reason you're pondering over: replacing 18" rubber over replacing 19" rubber :P

PM me when you're ready

Shopping for reo bar, bodykit, and 17"-18" rims.

Join the list of 33 owners seeking reo bars :P

i say get a gtr front bar, and some rear pods, should be plenty, bodykits on a daily are a pain in the ass on Adelaide roads.

And get some 33gtr rims on it!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...