Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How do I engine flush? Ive never done it and oils due in 1500 (5K intervals) Guessing its just a additive to pour in and wait till it drains out? Im running castrol edge sport 5w30 in the stag and seems ok. Ive seen people ranting of this Fuchs stuff in the stag section and its pretty cheap apparantly asked repco about it and they said id be going backwards...?

Should i do the oil before the dyno even though its not going be due for another week or 2?

To do an engine flush you buy an additive and put it in with your current oil. Let the car idle for about 10 mins, then dump the oil while its still warm. Easy as!

If your going from synth to mineral you have to change your oil filter too. (I do it every service anyway)

If anyone is interested in trying ULX 110 then let me know, the distributor works with me so could probably get discount.....

I would suggest that you use Penny's advice but instead of puting the additive with your current oil, get some fully synthetic 0W20 oil which you should never drive on and then change oil, add additive and then let the car warm up to operating temperatures and then drain that oil. Change the oil filter to a new one and chuck in some Motul 8100 or anything of your choice....If i am correct thats how you flush your engine :)

well, got a fine in the mail today. i ran an amber, 2 cops say i ran a red. my word vs. theirs. guess who wins. looks like ill be driving like an old lady 10km/h under the limit in the right hand lane (like basically everyone else in sa) til my licence recovers.

Edited by scandyflick
I am not saying that your method is wrong Penny

Just a different approach to doing it i guess and its a bit more expensive but i reackon it does a better job

No worries, just though you were correcting me. Haha

Unless you have done heaps of KMs or run it on shit oil then a flush isn't crazy important because you shouldn't have big sludge build up, different story for older engines.

I only had to do it because of the Synth to Mineral change. I was also told I could change the oil with a cheap mineral first (no additive), run it, drain it and then put in the good stuff. That's more expensive tho..

I dont know why most of you guys waste so much money on oil just to drive around on the street :) I use Castrol Edge 0w-40 in the Skyline and run it at 18psi (420rwhp) foot flat lap after lap at Mallala and the engine loves it and it only cost about $70 from Super Cheap.

Only thing i do is change the oil before every track day.

Edited by DSTROY

I just drained 7.5K Km old Motul 8100 and it looked relatively good other than it's dark appearance, no sludge. Just replaced filter and put in some 10/40 300V chrono, didn't do a flush as I don't think it's necessary... yet :)

Chad I used 300V this time because I'm not going to change it again until it's clocked up 10K Kms.

Dave I know how you feel, I got done running an amber and got screwed in court because the officers affidavit didn't make the situation look good for me..... but we've been over all this previously hey Pete :)

yeah im not going to flush as i dont see the point im just curious of how its done...

I change mine every 5K relegiously and even did a 2.5k swap when i first got it to make sure it was all real fresh. Always do filter too.

oil and filters cost me Fall I get trade at repco

Got a message from a mate that there is going to be 60 cops coming over from Victoria (great swine flu) this thursday for a 2 week blitz in Adelaide.

Donno what the blitz is on but I'm guessing it's going to be everything. Just a warning :)

yeah, read something along similar lines on 31club. dude who started the thread thinks its a defect blitz. probably bullshit, but it couldnt hurt to be a little more careful with that many more unmarkeds potentially* on the road.

*its probably bullshit.

anyone got a hex socket that goes onto a wrench to remove head studs i could borrow

gotta take the head off a ca18det

and gotta find out what size it is

anyone know ?

cheers

I just got one from sprints for my rb25 head bolts, was 10mm, cost around $15 i think!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You now say stumble, but you said cut out before. Will it slow rev through the cut/stumble? What gap were your spark plugs set to when you them in?
    • I had double clamped all the pipes but I checked them over any way, everything tight and secure. feels and sounds like a electrical short/failure, as it is an abrupt and aggressive stumble, that instantly comes and goes right at 4k mark...like clock work fuel pump and filter are new new coils and plugs injectors where cleaned and tested 200 miles plus ago no black smoke cleaned MAF   same results, other ideas? some other sensor?  
    • Yes, just without the annoying use of the word hybrid. We stopped using that term 20 years ago when we realised it meant different things to different people. Even "highflow" can represent more than one way of achieving the goal of getting more flow out of a turbo. But at least it says what it does on the box.
    • OH, when they say "solid buckets", I always interpeted that as "shimless". (Which is not the same as the "shimness word I invented above to represent the same idea that the buckets act as shims also!!). Still the same problem though. So it appears that buying a "kit" from Tomei is a two step process. Makes sense. Doesn't make sense in the context of a "kit" though.
    • Wanted to add some of my R33 GTST  R34 GTR wheels, 18x9 ET30 with 255/35/R18 PS4S'   BBS RE-V7 029 18x9.5 ET22 with 255/35/R18 PS4S' Needs a bit of camber   
×
×
  • Create New...