Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How do I engine flush? Ive never done it and oils due in 1500 (5K intervals) Guessing its just a additive to pour in and wait till it drains out? Im running castrol edge sport 5w30 in the stag and seems ok. Ive seen people ranting of this Fuchs stuff in the stag section and its pretty cheap apparantly asked repco about it and they said id be going backwards...?

Should i do the oil before the dyno even though its not going be due for another week or 2?

To do an engine flush you buy an additive and put it in with your current oil. Let the car idle for about 10 mins, then dump the oil while its still warm. Easy as!

If your going from synth to mineral you have to change your oil filter too. (I do it every service anyway)

If anyone is interested in trying ULX 110 then let me know, the distributor works with me so could probably get discount.....

I would suggest that you use Penny's advice but instead of puting the additive with your current oil, get some fully synthetic 0W20 oil which you should never drive on and then change oil, add additive and then let the car warm up to operating temperatures and then drain that oil. Change the oil filter to a new one and chuck in some Motul 8100 or anything of your choice....If i am correct thats how you flush your engine :)

well, got a fine in the mail today. i ran an amber, 2 cops say i ran a red. my word vs. theirs. guess who wins. looks like ill be driving like an old lady 10km/h under the limit in the right hand lane (like basically everyone else in sa) til my licence recovers.

Edited by scandyflick
I am not saying that your method is wrong Penny

Just a different approach to doing it i guess and its a bit more expensive but i reackon it does a better job

No worries, just though you were correcting me. Haha

Unless you have done heaps of KMs or run it on shit oil then a flush isn't crazy important because you shouldn't have big sludge build up, different story for older engines.

I only had to do it because of the Synth to Mineral change. I was also told I could change the oil with a cheap mineral first (no additive), run it, drain it and then put in the good stuff. That's more expensive tho..

I dont know why most of you guys waste so much money on oil just to drive around on the street :) I use Castrol Edge 0w-40 in the Skyline and run it at 18psi (420rwhp) foot flat lap after lap at Mallala and the engine loves it and it only cost about $70 from Super Cheap.

Only thing i do is change the oil before every track day.

Edited by DSTROY

I just drained 7.5K Km old Motul 8100 and it looked relatively good other than it's dark appearance, no sludge. Just replaced filter and put in some 10/40 300V chrono, didn't do a flush as I don't think it's necessary... yet :)

Chad I used 300V this time because I'm not going to change it again until it's clocked up 10K Kms.

Dave I know how you feel, I got done running an amber and got screwed in court because the officers affidavit didn't make the situation look good for me..... but we've been over all this previously hey Pete :)

yeah im not going to flush as i dont see the point im just curious of how its done...

I change mine every 5K relegiously and even did a 2.5k swap when i first got it to make sure it was all real fresh. Always do filter too.

oil and filters cost me Fall I get trade at repco

Got a message from a mate that there is going to be 60 cops coming over from Victoria (great swine flu) this thursday for a 2 week blitz in Adelaide.

Donno what the blitz is on but I'm guessing it's going to be everything. Just a warning :)

yeah, read something along similar lines on 31club. dude who started the thread thinks its a defect blitz. probably bullshit, but it couldnt hurt to be a little more careful with that many more unmarkeds potentially* on the road.

*its probably bullshit.

anyone got a hex socket that goes onto a wrench to remove head studs i could borrow

gotta take the head off a ca18det

and gotta find out what size it is

anyone know ?

cheers

I just got one from sprints for my rb25 head bolts, was 10mm, cost around $15 i think!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
    • Did you hit up the search function? R33 and greddy and cable returns this thread with some options.   https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358214-rb25-throttle-body/
    • Thanks buddy.. the standard one needs to be about another inch or inch and a half longer. Thanks anyway
×
×
  • Create New...