Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mark, I nabbed it for $450, absolute bargain!

Kye, it's the JJR one, here's the link

Meant to reply to your SMS today, sorry, been busy. Unfortunately I can't make it, the missus committed us to her friends 22nd that night, dress up so I don't really want to go :P I've got to organise a time to get the y-pipe of you if you don't mind, very keen on getting that sorted

Luke, thats hot. :P

My old man picked up a 1994 Mitsubishi Delica Spacegear today and I got to drive it home, 2.8L turbo diesel 4WD... it came with a Nardi Torino steering wheel! I'd nab the steering wheel if I had a car to put it into lol the R33 requires airbag and the daily honda has the cruise control switches which I dont want to lose.

I was going to do the high boost mod on my car today but unfortunately got stuck at my mothers house all afternoon!!!! :P

skip it and put a bc in mate. i did it over the weekend, set mine to approx 12psi tonight. effing fantastic i tell ya!

turbos almost off again. rotated it from the exhaust wheel by hand while it was still on the engine, made a nice little grinding noise. sigh.

anyone know anyone who has a t28bb lying around?

:)

and what are you trying to say huh? huh? huh? :P

never u mind hehe

heslo: envious of the airbox.......always loved the ARC stuff....except the price

luke_enr34: have you got any cables coming thru any grommets in the firewall...............could be water coming from road spray (in the engine bay) working its way thru. mate of mine had same issue, he thought his windscreen was shagged in his patrol (plus the next 2 they installed). turned out it was his cabling for the spotties that was tracking the water in via the grommet

The things i know :P

Got my dash out today. Now to remove all the air-con components and just have the rear demister and a fan for the front window. Gonna be a shit load of space behind the dash now. Thinking of making a cf panel with 2 switches on it.

skip it and put a bc in mate. i did it over the weekend, set mine to approx 12psi tonight. effing fantastic i tell ya!

I have stock ecu, turbo ect ect ect. Little worried about detonation going for more than 7 psi. Did you bypass the factory solenoid altogether?

Yep, bypass it. You can still wind in decent boost with the stock ECU so long as your EBC is set up correctly... probably better off going that route to be honest. Then when you want/can afford go for a full fledged aftermarket ECU and get a tune, then you'll really see some gains!

turbos off. comp cover had half blown off. pulled the cover off completely, theres a couple marks on it, and theres some scraping on the blades, so ill be looking into some options tomorrow.

I have stock ecu, turbo ect ect ect. Little worried about detonation going for more than 7 psi. Did you bypass the factory solenoid altogether?

certainly did Steve

yeah the stock ecu is definitely a setback with boost - rich & retard really sucks. power wasn't being distributed nicely through the rev range - anywhere from 3500 - 6000 rpm was very flat, but as soon as you passed 6000, this big hit of power would chuck you back in your seat.

however -

when i added my fmic, i took the car for a drive around the block with the front bar and reo off -it was boosting almost 1 bar! and this was with the standard solenoid, and standard ecu - it flew! but as soon as i put the reo and front bar back on, boost dropped back to 9psi

Im runing a remapped ecu now, good bang for buck, and its roadworthy :P

Yep, bypass it. You can still wind in decent boost with the stock ECU so long as your EBC is set up correctly... probably better off going that route to be honest. Then when you want/can afford go for a full fledged aftermarket ECU and get a tune, then you'll really see some gains!

How much is safe? I might have to do some homework on ebc's... :P

certainly did Steve

yeah the stock ecu is definitely a setback with boost - rich & retard really sucks. power wasn't being distributed nicely through the rev range - anywhere from 3500 - 6000 rpm was very flat, but as soon as you passed 6000, this big hit of power would chuck you back in your seat.

however -

when i added my fmic, i took the car for a drive around the block with the front bar and reo off -it was boosting almost 1 bar! and this was with the standard solenoid, and standard ecu - it flew! but as soon as i put the reo and front bar back on, boost dropped back to 9psi

Im runing a remapped ecu now, good bang for buck, and its roadworthy :P

The only thing that annoys me really is the fact it hits the boost limit (5 psi I think...?) under 3000 RPM since the AM dump/front/cat and 3-3.5" catback has gone on. Would like just a little extra between 2800(approx)-5000 RPM.

Nice Luke...stretched rubber on the rears? :)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
×
×
  • Create New...