Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just heard a dark coloured nissan skyline was used in a hold up over night.

I assume its the stolen 33 getting around.

Yeah ... wonder how the media will spin it?

"Hoons turn to new wave of crime!"

Just heard a dark coloured nissan skyline was used in a hold up over night.

I assume its the stolen 33 getting around.

You sure they werent stealing petrol from the tankers :P

sounds like FNF is in adelaide

Quick (dumb) question ...

Where is a good place to buy one of those baffle inserts for JunBL mufflers? (approx 5" outlet)

Ebay? ... or just go to someone like AAA. They should have something in stock yes? :(

just head out to one of the exhaust shops Roo....they should have it in stock if not then they should be able to make one up for you in no time

Thanks Krishy. I just didn't want to waste a lunch break taking a dead end. :(

yeah Dan, not just any RB30, but OS Giken RB30 .... just the blocks alone are $30k .... and he has bought many of them .... still has a brand new one sitting under his workbench under a sheet if I remember correctly ....

RB30 and RB315 Race engines

The ultimate upgrade for your RB26, these complete pre-assembled bottom-end kits are rated to handle power outputs up to 1400hp.

The RB30 features 86mm stroke with a forged chrome-moly crank, forged chrome-moly SCM steel H-beam conrods and forged 4032 aluminium 86mm pistons. It is made using a new Nissan block and specially designed spacer and liner kit. Special features not found in a normal RB26 include an 8-bolt flywheel pattern*, 22mm gudgeon pins and 23mm rod bearing width. Nismo black metal crankshaft bearings are used, with specially designed crank cap bolts. The bottom end is supplied complete with a metal head gasket, specially designed head stud bolts, adjustable timing gears, tensioner pulley and longer timing belt.

The new RB315 features 89mm stroke and 86.5mm pistons for 3138cc capacity. Normal combustion chamber volume comes to 10cc, but specially shaped pistons can also be custom-ordered. The RB315 is built using an N1 block, with the same specially-designed spacer and liner arrangement as the RB30, with an oil restrictor and piston cooler jets already fitted.

OS Giken RB30 $29,900

OS Giken RB315 $31,900

*An OS Giken clutch must be ordered to suit the crank in these engines

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...