Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

whats this cheater bar im guessing not Jerry Springer styles

cheater bar is a hollow metal bar with extra length used as a longer lever. truckies used them a lot, but they're highly illegal in a lot of industries (as if ya dont know what ya doing its a danger)

Yeah looks like the way to go but pity we can't lock the diff to stop the hub from spinning as there's no gearbox in the car :)

try locking the brakes on, or drop the tailshaft off and find a way to lock the front face of the diff centre

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188470-hubs-bolts/#findComment-3398355
Share on other sites

You should be able to find a point of rotation where the hub doesn't move much (without the need to lock it) - you only have to break it - then it will be easy peasy. I would buy some 'penetrene' (which is a spray not dissimilar to WD40) that will get into the thread and make it much easier to undo. I have a bottle here if you want to come over and borrow it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188470-hubs-bolts/#findComment-3398627
Share on other sites

well Luke got that big nut off very easy but couldn't get any further, and I'm not led to believe we need a press to get it off the axle but we couldn't even get the axle out the car

bit spewn cause i will have to pay wrecker prices for both front and rear hubs :wave:

so if anyone has any bright ideas which are based on fact not how about try this then would be greatly appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188470-hubs-bolts/#findComment-3401135
Share on other sites

yeah but still no adice on how to get the backing plate or what ever its called with the axel and hub out or do i have to undo all the bold holding the diff in then maybe find sum bolts on the back of this so called backing plate again if thats what its called,

and ive probably run out of time to get these parts :yucky:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188470-hubs-bolts/#findComment-3401219
Share on other sites

theres a couple silly suggestions in here...

ive changed many of these before, the toolman at pooraka has the socket ($30) u wont find them at autobarn/sprints ect, like a few guys said use the ratchet with a big f*k off hollow bar slide over it for leverage (the longer the better).. note a little hint wrap the bar is some rags as she can let go suddenly and u dont want to scratch your paint, try to use the smallest extension also, as i broke 2 1/2 extensions :yucky:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188470-hubs-bolts/#findComment-3401387
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...