Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have been thinking of upgrading my radiator in the near future and i noticed some of them dont have the holes to put the stock radiator shroud back on. It got me thinking, is it really needed? Or is it just to stop noobs from putting their hands and who knows what other body parts into the fan while the engine is on?

Does it have much to do with airflow? or can the car live without it?

Thanks

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188502-radiator-shroud/
Share on other sites

keep it - the thermo fan drags air through the radiator, guided by the shroud.

if the shroud isn't there, it still draws some air through the radiator, bt alot of energy just moves air around the engine bay.

ie. it's there to help airflow efficiency through the radiator

it's primarily for low speed stuff where there isn't enough air going through on it's own.

i've heard stories of cars that will overheat without the shroud, all things remaining equal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188502-radiator-shroud/#findComment-3399143
Share on other sites

Well sure it might help the radiator from not letting the air go where ever it likes, but how much difference can it make? 2-8 degrees in temp? more? Having a larger radiator that does not support the stock shroud, wouldtnt that make it cooler anyway?

Hmm..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188502-radiator-shroud/#findComment-3399232
Share on other sites

I have tested this theory a while back,. with and without shroud I noticed over a 10% difference in engine temp. The same would be said with thermos as they rely even moreso on the shroud drawing the cooler air onto the engine.

Just take a look at some Race prepped skylines. You will notice custom shrouds made up in front to help guide the air. This isnt there for show.You will also have a few extra hp with it than without it.

Although its totally up to you, and The car may live without it, but your fan will loose much of its cooling efficiency.

Edited by silverbulletR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188502-radiator-shroud/#findComment-3399828
Share on other sites

My old radiator had a small leak in the top plastic tank. Replaced it with an aftermarket all alluminium one but the shroud didnt fit. Havent had any heating issues so far even now that we're into summer. This radiator does seem to cool a lot better than the stock one though, so im guessing the ~5-10 degrees im losing for not having a shroud is being made up by the better radiator.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188502-radiator-shroud/#findComment-3399896
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...