Jump to content
SAU Community

Bee-r Limiter On R34 Gtt

GTmike34

By GTmike34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

BlackBox Rising Star

BlackBox

Posted
Posted

sorry for possible thread hijack but.. I also Have R34 GTT with Apexi PFC (Standard not PRO - so no spark cut or 2 stage launch control)

I am interested in getting a *Bee-R mostly for 2-stage and the 'hektic sounds' :whistling: but i have some concern over possible engine damage :s

sleptema Proficient

sleptema

Posted
Posted

sorry for possible thread hijack but.. I also Have R34 GTT with Apexi PFC (Standard not PRO - so no spark cut or 2 stage launch control)

I am interested in getting a *Bee-R mostly for 2-stage and the 'hektic sounds' :whistling: but i have some concern over possible engine damage :s

Hektic sounds are great. Throwing a rod is not. What do you want more, a running engine? Or some flames to impress your mates.

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted (edited)

I feel that its different in the smallest way. But I feel what peopel are saying is to do is to just have flames and a loud bang bang sound doesn't make sense. It will kill the motor really fast. Anti lag systems depending on what kind will kill the motor faster and I can sit here and list a few parts that will surely fail. But real question at hand, is it worth it.? Ill be doing a anti lag system soon and surly not for the sound. Put it simple I want to win a prize next year and just forking out the cash would be easy to do, but the challenge is using a car to win the prize. Its more than just a tangible prize though.

In short I do agree that these devices speed up the destruction of the vehicle's engine. I hope its worth it.

Oh I remember the old days of piggy backs before it took me years to learn just to get a new ecu that can do it. Lol. I never thought it would be this beneficial. All the other stuff was just a bonus.

Edited by MJTru
Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

I don't know if power fc uses ignition cut.

My response was in regards to the post above mine where it was said, how one can be safe and the other not.

Ignition cut is hektik and makes more than your exhaust go bang.

Fuel cut generally speaking better for the motor.

BlackBox Rising Star

BlackBox

Posted
Posted

I don't know if power fc uses ignition cut.

My response was in regards to the post above mine where it was said, how one can be safe and the other not.

Ignition cut is hektik and makes more than your exhaust go bang.

Fuel cut generally speaking better for the motor.

Power FC uses fuel cut, Power FC PRO uses ignition cut.

The way i understand fuel cut can cause lean condition but ignition cut can damage turbo and exhaust system.

Is cutting both a better idea for rev limiter? (Obviously no good for launch control) or would it be a very harsh power cut?

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

The way i understand fuel cut can cause lean condition

I don't understand how this can be the case.. petrol has a very narrow window of air/fuel mix where it will ignite. if you are leaner than say 17:1 then it will not fire. fuel cut cuts ALL fuel. The only way you could get fuel into the combustion chamber is if it were left over from the previous combustion event. pretty unlikely to be enough fuel to make a flammable mix. when an ECU cuts fuel to a cylinder it needs to decide before opening the injector, it would be pretty f**king stupid for an ecu manufacturer to put out an ECU that decided to stop fuel delivery mid-injection.

also, ignition cut and antilag are different things.

Touring Rookie

Touring

Posted
Posted (edited)

I don't know if power fc uses ignition cut.

My response was in regards to the post above mine where it was said, how one can be safe and the other not.

Ignition cut is hektik and makes more than your exhaust go bang.

Fuel cut generally speaking better for the motor.

I like how people try to promote the Bee-r ignition cut system by saying its better for the engine to run overly rich than lean. As if somehow running lean for a fraction of a split second during fuel cut is worse than the massive shockwave ignition cut causes. Its practically a nuke version of detonation.

Edited by Touring
Touring Rookie

Touring

Posted
Posted

I never really set out to agree or disagree with you :)

But I think the bottom like here is the type of people who want the bee-r system only want it for the mad props effect. They don't really care about their car and are only in it to show off popping fire in front of girls, if the car dies then it dies and they move on to the next car they will abuse.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...