Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

have you tried cranking over crank with a ratchet just to make sure it hasnt seized, if it hasn't as long as when you changed all your electrics over you put your series 1 coil packs and igniter over then you should use the series 1 ecu and it should work. only thing left is a loose connection or blown fuse or realy, easist to pull out all the fuses check if they are ok, i dun remember how to check relays mabye try swaping the mayor ones around if there are any and smell then see if they smell burnt out, then if that fails start checking ALL of your connections you have made make sure everything is hooked up and hooked up correctly and properly

Dont dry cell batteries need a charger with a lot more oomph than normal batteries?

What sort of battery do you have and what charger are you using?

I had my dry cell on charge with a small charger for quite a few days...lol it didnt work at all :)

Maybe try a new battery (not a new dry cell they can be $$$$) at least it will rule it out.

well i brought a new battery its worked well sort of

it primes everything up all sweet n shit all lights work

but its wont fire the starter motor

can i have put the wires on the wrong terminals on the starter motor

does anyone have pic of whet side they go on ??

Noone on here will be able to tell you with certainty what your problem is. Grab your multimeter and start by checking the voltage across the starter motor when trying to start and if that's no good check for continuity (resistance) between the ecu (pin 43 i believe, but check this) and starter, check the fuse etc. There isn't much really to the circuit apart from the ignition barrell. If the ECU isn't sending the correct signal (eg. series 1 vs 2) then you have basically no chance.

Is the ECU spitting out any error codes? Is there power to anything else? (water temp sensor, CAS, AFM, coils, fuel pump as random examples)

Edited by govich
Noone on here will be able to tell you with certainty what your problem is. Grab your multimeter and start by checking the voltage across the starter motor when trying to start and if that's no good check for continuity (resistance) between the ecu (pin 43 i believe, but check this) and starter, check the fuse etc. There isn't much really to the circuit apart from the ignition barrell. If the ECU isn't sending the correct signal (eg. series 1 vs 2) then you have basically no chance.

Is the ECU spitting out any error codes? Is there power to anything else? (water temp sensor, CAS, AFM, coils, fuel pump as random examples)

i know that but im elimanating anythin possiable

error codes ?? how do i find this out

and where is pin 43 on the ecu

my hole wiring loom in s1 any wires or elec componants are s1 all i dont was use the head and block

when you say you dont have any spark or inj do you mean the starter try's to crank it but it doesnt turn over just going tick tick tick?? are both the injectors and spark not working how have you tested for both? is the fuel pump priming?

Try swaping with a known good series 1 ecu, make sure the ignitor pack is plugged in properly, double check you havent missed pluggin in any of the connections. are the ignigtor packs known to be good?? stupid question but did you transfer over your spark plugs sometimes people forget the obvious things.

when you say you dont have any spark or inj do you mean the starter try's to crank it but it doesnt turn over just going tick tick tick?? are both the injectors and spark not working how have you tested for both? is the fuel pump priming?

Try swaping with a known good series 1 ecu, make sure the ignitor pack is plugged in properly, double check you havent missed pluggin in any of the connections. are the ignigtor packs known to be good?? stupid question but did you transfer over your spark plugs sometimes people forget the obvious things.

i have plugged everythihng in

the pump is priming

its turning over

the ignightor pack is pluged in

spark plugs are in

i tested them all

spark plugs not sparking

inj not pulsing

all tested

  • 3 months later...

have ya found out what the problem is yet with your car

i have a similar problem at the moment. The car was running previously but then now wont start. The engine is turning over but just wont start.

different power fc's have already been tried. Spark plugs, coilpacks, different CAS will be looked at monday.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...