Jump to content
SAU Community

Hiclone - ? - Another Myth To Grab Average Car People? Snake Oil?


Recommended Posts

I'm assuming this is just like all the other 'Gain power now, save fuel..'

http://www.fuelsaver.com.au/hiclone.php

Thoughts?

After looking through the web site, it all feels like rubbish, but......

From web site....

Turbo Engines

For Turbo vehicles we suggest installing Hiclones in two locations.

The first Hiclone is installed near the intake manifold; after the Turbo or intercooler; to improve combustion and economy.

The second part is installed near the air filter, before the Turbo. This part helps the Turbo Impellor to spin, reducing Turbo lag, bringing the boost in around 400-500rpm earlier.

It is also possible to install extra Hiclones in power or economy positions to further improve the vehicle. We have a lot of customers with up to 6 Hiclones installed on one vehicle.

Please note the line - AFTER THE Turbo ??!!!

Edited by Zebbie

I read an article a little while ago where they tested a bunch of these power enhancing/fuel saving type devices in a stock car on a dyno, and the best you could hope is that they did nothing, most of them restricted some power and one even set the test car on fire :)

surely you jest?!?! I mean look at the fking thing. and the diagrams... ooooh swirling air.... just get out a $100 note and set it on fire. you will get all of the benefits of a hi-con with the potential for engine damage.

i've bought a new RB20E long and i'm building it up to run quad hiclones... should run 9's all day

Edited by joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

This is my favourite quote from their website:

The ECU will need time to re-learn (about a week) this is why dyno shops who test products by doing one run without, and one run with any product don't know how to use a dyno on an EFI car.

So basically they are saying everytime you do back to back dyno tests you are wrong, and thats why no one has proof their product actually works.

Utter BS

This is my favourite quote from their website:

The ECU will need time to re-learn (about a week) this is why dyno shops who test products by doing one run without, and one run with any product don't know how to use a dyno on an EFI car.

So basically they are saying everytime you do back to back dyno tests you are wrong, and thats why no one has proof their product actually works.

Utter BS

anything to make a dollah!

I read an article a little while ago where they tested a bunch of these power enhancing/fuel saving type devices in a stock car on a dyno, and the best you could hope is that they did nothing, most of them restricted some power and one even set the test car on fire :D

:w00t:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...