Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what would a 33gtst with some slicks do with 360 - 380 rwkw ?

bit off topic.. just wondering what i should be aiming for

Well with that type of power and slicks and a good start, a 10 would have to be on the cards. Would be difficult to achieve but if driven correctly you would have to go close.

what would a 33gtst with some slicks do with 360 - 380 rwkw ?

bit off topic.. just wondering what i should be aiming for

It will be a fair bit quicker than the GTR with the same power as long as you use drag slicks . You should do a 10 with little practice on starts .

I know some people will argue otherwise....before you ask why the GTS is lighter and you have a lot less drag because you are only spinning 2 wheels not four .

This is the reason GTRS with the same power as STI's have a better 60ft time . The suby is a true 4WD, the GTR is not .

Of course if the GTS and the R both have street tyres the R will be quicker ET but the GTS will have higher trap speed .

As for a street GTR with 300 RWKW ( even 300AWKW for that matter) doing a flat 11, I would like to see that , you don't have a hope in hell ....as long as the car is full street weight you won't go near it.

Series 3 R33 gtr FULL street trim, 368awkw=11.1@130mph. This was on 19's with average driver, shit rubber, i dont have the timeslip so cant tell you the 60 foot time but i can tell you there is spin and torque steer in 1st gear so could go quicker on better rubber.

Edited by fieds83
Series 3 R33 gtr FULL street trim, 368awkw=11.1@130mph. This was on 19's with average driver, shit rubber, i dont have the timeslip so cant tell you the 60 foot time but i can tell you there is spin and torque steer in 1st gear so could go quicker on better rubber.

This has a 10 on street tyres with a resonable 60 footer. We did 11 flat at 129 MPH in a series III GTR , street tyres, full street trim, weight and 18" 34 GTR rims , the car was making about 360 AWKW . Never went bact to crack a 10 because of the cage issue, car was built to be a street stock looking car , not a drag or race car..

Spiining all the way in 1st, still managed 1.8 60ft.

tough subject... im thinking of taking my new beast out to the strip...

what you think id get in an R34GTR vspec, mods are: HKS 100mm FMIC, HKS cat back with punched out cat, HKS ebc on 1 bar, aftermarket panel filter (not sure which brand), HKS coilovers, tyres are 285's all round pretty good tyres again not sure wat brand... what wud i be looking at running??? oh and car is running with a mines rom tune, made around 240awkw

Edited by mass_iv

thanks mate, yeh i do, not many good ones yet, but here's a link to a good shot taken before i bought it... has diff plates on it now:

http://transelite.net/images/PICT0392.JPG

others are off camera phone the night i picked it up... little dodgy hehe:

http://img219.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture008qc2.jpg

http://img223.imageshack.us/my.php?image=image006vq0.jpg

Edited by mass_iv
tough subject... im thinking of taking my new beast out to the strip...

what you think id get in an R34GTR vspec, mods are: HKS 100mm FMIC, HKS cat back with punched out cat, HKS ebc on 1 bar, aftermarket panel filter (not sure which brand), HKS coilovers, tyres are 285's all round pretty good tyres again not sure wat brand... what wud i be looking at running??? oh and car is running with a mines rom tune, made around 240awkw

Flat 12 @ 114 MPH

thanks jerry i thought so... id be pretty happy with that... u seem to know wat u are talking about... hows your beast? i remember the day u came over i was like :) that color is awesome and the interior is sex!!!

thanks jerry i thought so... id be pretty happy with that... u seem to know wat u are talking about... hows your beast? i remember the day u came over i was like :) that color is awesome and the interior is sex!!!

You will need a little practice on your starts to do that but as you don't have heaps of power it will be easy, you just need the right RPM so you get enough wheel-spin not to bog down and not to much so you don't move .. R34's are a little quicker than 33's ( both same power cars ) because of the 6 speed box . It has beeter gear ratios and you don't go into 5th so you change the same amount of gears..

My car is still going great, no issues there but I don't get to drive it much, I'm not going to do any mods to it , I'm happy as it is .

I may look at the new GTR if and when it comes here, depending on a test drive and price .... maybe I shouldn't .... a Magna will suit me better I think....maybe a Camry.... Maybe I should stick to my GT... I don't really know what I want ...

sounds good mate... same with me, i dont really want to wreck the car, its too nice to destroy with huge mods.. ill prob complete the exhaust and a few little things here and there like cam gears and maybe PFC but thats it... nothing major it goes hard and drives smooth.

  • 3 years later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...