Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Where are you located ? I'll coat the ones that you think are giving you probs for free with polyester resin ! What have you lost ? If it works good ! If it dont them buy the ones you need ! Thats a hell of a saving if it works.

where do you get this polyester resin?

you reckon i cant remove the silicone and apply this stuff?

i still get a miss up high in the cooler night temps. i'm guessing gapping to 0.7 might fix this, but i'd rather keep 0.8mm gap if possible.

I have a different way of checking the coils, unbolt the coils, but leave them plugged in, wiht the car idling, preferrably in a poorly lit area, lift each coil with pliers by the plug, and watchand listen to the spark, if you can lift them 2cm without cousing a missfire, and can hear the spark(which will be pretty loud)then the coil and its insulation is fine.

I have a different way of checking the coils, unbolt the coils, but leave them plugged in, wiht the car idling, preferrably in a poorly lit area, lift each coil with pliers by the plug, and watchand listen to the spark, if you can lift them 2cm without cousing a missfire, and can hear the spark(which will be pretty loud)then the coil and its insulation is fine.

Yeah im gonna give this a go tomorrow after work

Adriano that sounds a little dangerous. Make sure the pliers are insulated but I wouldn't recommend this.

There is so much Voltage around this area! Could seriously hurt you

Dont see how you can get hurt, the spark will always jump to the head if you pull it too far, the only time i wouldnt recommend it is if you are running CDI. That and i ve never heard of anyone getting hurt by secondary voltages on a non CDI ignition system, just gives a but of a buzz.

Edited by Adriano

You can get polyester resin from Bunnings. Its the same resin(gelcoat) they use for fiberglassing. Just go to the fiberglass section and get a small tin, some acetone for clean up and a good idea is some thin rubber gloves. Clean the coils down with the acetone to get rid of the carbon deposits. As to the silicon thats gonna be a tough one as the polyester resin wont stick to it at all. You MUST get it all of for it to work. Mineral turps or even Xylol/Xylene and a lot of rubbing with a cloth is best and again finish off with acetone. You will also need some small paint brushes that are NOT synthetic bristles as the styrene monomer in the polyester resin will melt them. Mix up the gelcoat as per instructions on the tin( best to do it in parts as it starts to go off in about 15 mins). Take you brush and start to dab a thin layer all over the body of the coil leaving out the plug area and of coarse the area where the rubber insulator goes over. I gave mine two coats just to be sure. If youve added the catylist (hardener) at the right ratio the it should start to go off in about 15-20mins and be touch dry. Try and put them in the sun for about an hour and they will achieve full cure.

That about covers it.

Edited by PLYNX

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...