Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im interested in knowing aswell. But i would probably stick to the tried and tested jap brands....

I dont like how the e-Boost is in a circular bezel. How are you supposed to mount the sucker if you dont want to pillar mount it? Its too big IMO to pillar mount.. Prolly mount it under the steering wheel or something..

i purchased an eboost recently. I considered AVCR from apex, blitz type-s also. I was told by the tilbrooks mob that the AVCR was difficult to set up and to use all of its functions, they recommended the blitz. i was going to get that for under the 800$ mark (AVCR being around the 1000$), but then the eboost came up. I did some digging and ended up talking to the guys at the C&V Performance stand at Autosalon Final battle.

The enthusiasm with which he explained the unit to me pretty much sold it. The told me straight out that its better than anything else i could buy, and that they have been replacing AVCRs with the Eboost.

Apparently although other EBCs control the wastegate quite effectively, the Eboost is the only one with a "Gate pressure" function -you tell it exactly when to open, ie you can bring boost on quicker than anything else.

I have yet to fit it and try it out, but have read through the manual, and it all sounds good and seems very easy to use and program. Does anyone else have one? last time i asked apparently no one was using one.

-got it for 675$ from modyourcar.com.au.

i find the avcr not difficult to use at all and its so tunable you can change the characteristics of how boost comes on extremely well.

i am yet to install the avcr in my skyline however it was installed in my previous car (a wrx) for over 2 years.

i can honestly say the avcr transformed the wrx. the avcr, imho, is the only ebc on the market worth getting.

from auto speeds article (in case your not registered to read it):-

"The latest offering from Australia's TurboSmart, however - the e-Boost - can maintain a perfectly even maximum boost value. It also has an anti wastegate creep function and more features, which we'll come to..."

"After you've attained your desired maximum boost pressure, you can adjust the pressure at which the wastegate begins to open - this is excellent for bringing a big turbo onto full boost quickly or, conversely, bringing boost on progressively in order to protect drivelines."

"All too often aftermarket automotive products fail to live up to their manufacturer's claims and expectations - but the e-Boost is not one of those products! Once adjusted, it gives perfect boost stability as well as a noticeable difference in boost rise time."

"Verdict: The TurboSmart e-Boost is quite straightforward to install and set-up (which is good if you're doing it all yourself or you're paying a workshop an hourly labour rate) and - most importantly - it performs extremely well. It holds boost absolutely perfectly, you can adjust the rate of boost increase to suit and it offers a number of useful features."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...