Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

300rwkw in a gts-t would pull away from a gtr pretty easily.. maybe not up to 100 but from a rolling start no probs (e.g. 2nd and up)

Cheers for that mate. the plan is to make it a relialble 300rwkw weapon!!!

hehe, thats it :D

20k adventure is 300rwkw (reliably) :D

And no, it wont catch a GTR if is standing/low speed start. Not a chance.

money is not a problem mate, but it will still be a weapon hey

It will beat a stock GTR, it depands on what power and mods have been done to the GTR, you cant just say a 300rwkw GTST will beat a gtr, do you think it will beat a 400awkw GTR, no! Anyway my mate has an R33 GTST with about 310rwkw, his best time so far has been an 11.8 at WSID, that was on slicks. SO you should expect to be in the low 12s to high 11s, whic is an awesome time.

It will beat a stock GTR, it depands on what power and mods have been done to the GTR, you cant just say a 300rwkw GTST will beat a gtr, do you think it will beat a 400awkw GTR, no! Anyway my mate has an R33 GTST with about 310rwkw, his best time so far has been an 11.8 at WSID, that was on slicks. SO you should expect to be in the low 12s to high 11s, whic is an awesome time.

I no wat ya sayin by imposing that question i meant a stock gtr, or 1 close to stock with a few mods, Wat turbo was he using?? that awsome power!!!

It will beat a stock GTR, it depands on what power and mods have been done to the GTR, you cant just say a 300rwkw GTST will beat a gtr, do you think it will beat a 400awkw GTR, no! Anyway my mate has an R33 GTST with about 310rwkw, his best time so far has been an 11.8 at WSID, that was on slicks. SO you should expect to be in the low 12s to high 11s, whic is an awesome time.

Sorry champ. If your mate's car made that power and only ran 11.8 on slicks then something is seriously wrong. What was the mph?

Agreed.

300rwkw is low-11's at the least on slicks. I'd be more inclined to aim for high 10s

I was thinkin low to mid 11's too, could a GT 3040 push me down the quater with 300rwkw??

I no wat ya sayin by imposing that question i meant a stock gtr, or 1 close to stock with a few mods, Wat turbo was he using?? that awsome power!!!

I dont know full details of the car but its been at WSID a few times lately, last time I saw him there he snapped a drive shaft. Maroan R33 GTST, I know he has a greddy plemium, 1000cc inj, power fc, forged internals, boost controler, and you probably wont believe this (nobody does) but he is using a $400 full ceramic turbo that he bought off ebay, I only know that its a top mount and its quite large. He says that it makes 310rwkw, I havnt seen the papers, But I was there and watched it do an 11.8 q/m so I know it does the times.

Sorry champ. If your mate's car made that power and only ran 11.8 on slicks then something is seriously wrong. What was the mph?

Cant remember the mph, think it was in the 120s though, Look I know this guy through a mate and we went to the runs together a few times. I am only stating what times he did and what power he said it made as an indication to the author of this thread, if it is a shit time for that power level then maybe it doesnt make that much power, I dont know??? But I think that thats pretty awesome for a backyard build on a gtst.

I dont know full details of the car but its been at WSID a few times lately, last time I saw him there he snapped a drive shaft. Maroan R33 GTST, I know he has a greddy plemium, 1000cc inj, power fc, forged internals, boost controler, and you probably wont believe this (nobody does) but he is using a $400 full ceramic turbo that he bought off ebay, I only know that its a top mount and its quite large. He says that it makes 310rwkw, I havnt seen the papers, But I was there and watched it do an 11.8 q/m so I know it does the times.

CERAMIC TURBO!!!!!! thats insane, ebay does wonder's hey. Cheers tho, an 11 second street car is wat i am chasing. You would think it would crack! the turbo i mean, with that power.

Agreed.

300rwkw is low-11's at the least on slicks. I'd be more inclined to aim for high 10s

I think your being abit optimistic, again remember these are street cars with average drivers, maybe if it was a fully set up drag car, with all suspension and proper tyres and gutted interior this might be achieved. He was running slicks but no doubt they were the cheapest second hand set he could get his hands on. I should also add that the 11.8 pass was with massive wheelspin off the line. ANyway its an indication, I think if you are building a car you should look at the worst it should do and if you do better you will be happy, If the author of this thread goes to the track aiming for a high 11s pass and gets a low 11 he will be happy. If he goes aiming for a 10 and has a few bad runs and cant better a 12 then he will have the shits.there is too many vairables to say what it will run but I believe that on a street car that is used everyday an 11s pass is awesome. Thats my 2c

CERAMIC TURBO!!!!!! thats insane, ebay does wonder's hey. Cheers tho, an 11 second street car is wat i am chasing. You would think it would crack! the turbo i mean, with that power.

Thats what we are all waiting for! I mean surely it cant last! But it is still going, I'll let you know if it lets go. I think if you get 300rwkw you shuld be able to get into the 11s but you have to be hard on the car, thats why he broke the drive shaft, snapped it clean. But I think at that power level 10s is abit optimistic, but 11s is achievable.

Thats what we are all waiting for! I mean surely it cant last! But it is still going, I'll let you know if it lets go. I think if you get 300rwkw you shuld be able to get into the 11s but you have to be hard on the car, thats why he broke the drive shaft, snapped it clean. But I think at that power level 10s is abit optimistic, but 11s is achievable.

Snaped clean sh it hey, cheers for that mate let us know if it does crack...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...