Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was "observing" my cat, with the intention of upgrading to a Jap-spec :( on the weekend, when I noticed a sensor going into the cat. this sensor is extremely tight (no doubt because of the expansive heat and corrosive gases etc.

point is, I couldnt get it out, and therefore the Jaap-spec upgrade is on hold until I know what this sensor does.

followed the wire to under the passenger side front seat, from where I assume it goes to the computer.

Questions:

1. what is the sensor

2. what does it do

3. what happens if I cut it?

4. who do other people with the same year/model not have this *swear word* sensor?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19036-cat-converter-sensor/
Share on other sites

Guest RedLineGTR

i have had it on mine most aftermarket cats dont have a whole for it...you can unscrew it with a spanner..its a thread type of screw. It is the the emission control systems in cars, nothing happens when you pull it out, i have just put it under the heat shield above the cat and tied it down. It just makes some calculations etc, nothin serious, can really get technical.

Have not had any problems and most people do the same, dont know about cutting it but i just hid it out of the way just in case.

It's a temp sensor (or pyrometer) on the R32's.

I will double check the wiring diagrams and ecu diagnostics I have for R32 to see how exactly its connected. From memory it didnt look like it had any ECU function and is only used for a warning light.

on a r32 the cat sensor goes to the light on the dash

it does this aswell for a 33 but allso sends a signal back to the ecu to tell it that it is registing the heat in the exhaust if u take it out the ecu doesnt get the signal and puts the engine in to a semi limp mode because it cant read the exhaust heat

i kmow this coz i put a rb25t in a silvia and run like crap on boost put this sensor in the exhaust problem solved

its out of the way under the car and its there for a purpose

zanda, don't cut it dude, i had to cut my old sensor because for f**ksticks who did my cat for compliance welded the bloody thing on. i managed to get hold of a new sensor easily enough though. when i cut it, the cat light came on, on the dash, and stayed on all the time. it's there to tell you your cat could be blocked, but because mine was cut, that's what it was thinking. if i left the car idling for about 2 minutes it would turn itself off with this sensor cut (as greygirl1976 said, limp mode). you could just unplug it from under the seat (i don't know if this will cause the light to come on or not), or just tie it on to the cat, or just plug it in. mine is currently plugged into the car, but not connected to the "cat", just tied onto the side of it for now and its fine.

Hi guys, in Japan it is a requirement (since the 80's) to have a warning if the catalytic converter is overheating. The sensor mounted into the cat is for that purpose. I have yet to find a car that runs any differently when you unscrew the sensor and wire it up out of the way. I have seen people clamp it to the outside of the exhauts pipe just to be sure.

The lambda sensor for air fuel ratio checking (fuel economy and emmisions control) has to be mounted much closer to the engine. This means immediately after the turbo on Skylines.

Hope that clarifies

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nice, thanks for sharing your progress....that's a pretty long list you are putting into it!
    • Decided to upgrade my pressurised plastic coolant expansion tank for a fancy pants alloy version The OEM versions can get brittle, even the new plastic one I got when I first got the car is a starting to show signs of "stress" I wasn't cheap, but it is basically unbreakable
    • Morning all, I have an RB25DET Neo that's in need of a rebuild. Will need new pistons etc due to detonation damage. Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in Southeast Queensland who I could bring my long motor to for a rebuild? Just want someone who knows RBs and whos built a bunch of them before. TLDR - recommended engine shops for RB rebuild.
    • Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
×
×
  • Create New...