Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I am sure this is a re post but I did a search and found everything but.

I have just rebuilt my engine, pretty much stock other some some oil flow extras ;)

The car has aftermarket hi flow steel wheel bb turbos, exhaust, and a mines ecu.

Can anyone tell me how much pressure i can safely put into the motor? Im scared of blowing it up all over again. (Oil pump killed it the first time)

stock boost would be safe.

problem is your MINES ecu.

It is not tuned for AUS fuels.

If I was in your situation where I was now at least $6K lighter after the RB26 rebuild, I would either get a stock ECU or an aftermarket tunable ecu or even get the stock ECu remapped.

the MINES one will be the reason your engine will die if it dies again.

thats what I was going to say - the mines ECU.

They are exactly that - a land mine.

People think they are these crash hot ECUs and that their car runs so good with them. Shame its really detonating the ass end out of the engine, and killing it.

Get rid of it, and get a factory ECU, and then start saving for a Powerfc \ Link \ Haltek \ Emanage \ Autronic \ Microtec \ Millions of others

WOT HE SAID :)

BUT > after you refit your new ECU get a large hammer and bash the MINES ECU firmly and squarely in the middle of its backing case :(

Mike

thats what I was going to say - the mines ECU.

They are exactly that - a land mine.

People think they are these crash hot ECUs and that their car runs so good with them. Shame its really detonating the ass end out of the engine, and killing it.

Get rid of it, and get a factory ECU, and then start saving for a Powerfc \ Link \ Haltek \ Emanage \ Autronic \ Microtec \ Millions of others

Edited by The Alchemist
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

now that you have a rebuilt engine, some rebuilt turbos, and bigger injectors your best bet is to bite the bullet and buy a Power FC. it can be easily tuned for your larger injectors and I would say you can safely run 18psi. that should give you around 300rwkw and at this point your air flow meters will be maxing out (not a huge problem though, it can be tuned around).

mines ecus are not the death boxes people make them out to be. japane hi-oku (hi octane fuel) is not some magic fuel. yes it's better than our 98RON but not by much. back when we had only 91 and 95 sure there was a big difference, but not so much these days. yes many mines maps run very rich and also run lots of timing. providing you get it checked on a dyno and look at the AFRs and have somone listen for detonation they can be fine. but yeah, in your case now that you are after more power, switch to something programmable.

Why are you going to spend $1000+ for a PowerFC, then install & then get it retuned when the stock ECU can be reprogrammed with Nistune to run bigger injectors/Z32 afms etc etc

My brother has the exact same setup as you, cept 34gtr steel wheeld turbos, nismo pump & all forged internals etc etc. Runs sard 700cc injectors on 15psi atm. Eventually he'll upgrade the turbos.

Car runs very smooth. Retune was $880 through hyperdrive here in Perth. They swap some of the ecu out initially (which is why its a little more), every tune after that is $145. They've tuned them fine with upgraded twins, but yet to do a big single

I know the power fc has a more capable processor but dont see anything wrong with the stocker. just my 2c

Mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...