Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just received and installed a HKS SSQV Bov into my RB25DET the simple way, but after the installation I noticed on the instructions which came with it says to disconnect the battery (-) cable.. I didnt do this, does anyone know why it needs to be done prior to installation? or is it OK to leave it connected whilst installing?

Also, im getting a real bad boost drop when changing gears, almost as if its leaking.. Has anyone else got this problem with the new SSQV?

Cheers.

Edited by EVL-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190441-hks-ssqv-installation-question/
Share on other sites

the reason they say 2 disconnect the battery is so that incase you touch sumthing u shouldnt and cause damage to the ecu or anything else

ah ok.. thanks 4 the quick reply raps86 :cheers:

does anyone know why im getting a bad boost drop when changing gears? almost as if the car is gonna stall..

Edited by EVL-R33

Atmo valves can do this...

As the stock ecu is realying/expecting on return air post AFM...

By putting in a atmo valve your not returning the charged air back to the intake, hence the ecu is missing a huge chunck of "counted" air... So lack of air causes the engine to stall/labour for a second while the intake catchs back up to real time data being feed from the afm... Does this make sence?

The way to get round this is get a PFC or similar after market ecu which can be tuned with atmo valves and not have stalling issues...

hey evl. i have had my hks ssq on my line for about 1yr. many people claim stalling issues. but it has NEVER happened to me. i think it is an urban myth that affects 10% of the population.

perhaps, the spring is too loose. i suggest tightening the screw on top of the bov. also from my experience, make sure the vacuum hose is on properly, same goes for the plumb back hose. ive forgotten this once and stalled 100m from my driveway :cheers:

Atmo valves can do this...

As the stock ecu is realying/expecting on return air post AFM...

By putting in a atmo valve your not returning the charged air back to the intake, hence the ecu is missing a huge chunck of "counted" air... So lack of air causes the engine to stall/labour for a second while the intake catchs back up to real time data being feed from the afm... Does this make sence?

The way to get round this is get a PFC or similar after market ecu which can be tuned with atmo valves and not have stalling issues...

Makes sence what your saying, but I have a PFC installed with a Z32 AFM and its been tuned on an atmo GFB BOV previously.. I had no problems with the GFB, but I thought id give the SSQV a go..

I have the newest SSQV so there is NO pressure regulator on it and I cant tighten the valve spring..

When the valve opens to release the air into the atmo, it takes longer to close than the GFB i previously had, so when I accelarate again after changing gears the valve is still open for a second and the air doesnt get into the plenum causing a stall/labour..

On a positive note, the SSQV holds boost much better than the GFB i previously had..

Edited by EVL-R33
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...