Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make: GTR R33 S3

Model:1997

Milage:19000km since build the car

Colour: gray

Location:GOLD COAST

RWC supplied? yes

Currently registered? TOP RPM

Price: $65,000

Contact: PM if you serious buyer dont want 2 waste my time please !

Comments / Modifications:

TOMIE 2.8 full STROkR kit

TOMIE 290/11 cams

TOMIE CAM GEARS

TOMIE OIL PUMP

Greddy T88H-38gk

Greddy manifold

Greddy full exhaust system

NSX fuel system

Sard 1000cc injectrs

Sard Fuel rail

PWR RADIATOR

TRUST OIL COOLER

HKS INTERCOOLER

Full set of Defi gauges

Recaro seats

TOP SECRET bonnet

VOLK GTC 19x10.5 rollin on toyo's

lots & lots spent on the car and its run 10.6 sec @ 141 MPH ( 863 HP )

dynosheetsn3.jpg

en1ic1.jpg

en1ic1.6915fac45a.jpg

28xy7.jpg

onthedynoxt9.jpg

outks4.jpg

insidedk6.jpg

okbr6.jpg

backoffvx5.jpg

backoffvx5.263b86bdb1.jpg

Edited by Barhoom
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190942-delet-please/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
    • Motor and body mockup. Wheel fitment and ride height not set. Last pic shows front ride height after modifying the front uprights to make a 1.25" drop spindle.
    • Here's Logans Silvia with R32 Drivetrain, mine will be slightly lower (more angle). He was constantly blowing the RH axles at around 16deg. I want to avoid this.    
×
×
  • Create New...