Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have recently lowered my car 1.75 inches all round with king springs. Unfortunately the tyres now hit on the strut everytime i take a corner fast, and the back end will dump down when i change gears fast.

The question is, will good shockers like biltzien etc. fix this problem by not having so much body movement that the suspension bottoms out?

any help would be greatly appreciated, thanx...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19100-suspension-setup/
Share on other sites

Sounds like your offsets are a little too deep; ie they place the wheels about 5mm too far inboard (assuming they are aftermarket jobbies).

Also, when you lower, you tend to pick up extra negative camber - when looking at the wheel front on the tops of the wheel tip in towards the body. A good camber correction kit or adjustment should fix this.

Just a note also when you lower a car - the stock shockers are put under a fair bit more strain as they are not 'matched' to the spring rates - if you can afford it would be wise to change the shocks too to a stiffer rating - when you say it dumps down when changing it seems like you don't have enough damping.

Hope that helps :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19100-suspension-setup/#findComment-401608
Share on other sites

thanx ronin, yea there was no extra camber i asked the guys when i got my wheels aligned..

The tyrewall doesnt hit on the strut housing, there is around 1cm+ clearance there, but the top of the tyre scrapes on the part of the strut that supports the spring.

Because this is caused by excessive bodyroll on corners and big bumps, if i had uprated shockers/heavy duty would that stop this from happenin?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19100-suspension-setup/#findComment-402794
Share on other sites

Hippy: I'm not exactly sure.. I don't believe mine has any form of camber adjustment and it was sitting pretty damn low (enough to get canaried). It still handled pretty much the same at that height and my current legal height so maybe the coilovers are better at adjusting for that. I have adjustable (height & damper) Zeal Coilovers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19100-suspension-setup/#findComment-402852
Share on other sites

i did the same as you. droped my R32 about 2 inches and after about 4 weeks of driving i had blown the standard shocks. The seals split and all the damping oil came out. it was like driving a pogo stick around, and can be fairly dangerous.

I replaced the standard shock absorbers with Bilsteins and they worked a treat, however be careful with how low you are going to run the car, because i found it possible to bottom them out on big hits. other than that it was a sweet ride!

The shocks cost about $1300 and you can use all the bits off your standards - boots, strut tops, bumpers etc.

not a very hard job at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19100-suspension-setup/#findComment-402854
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...