Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

LPG on a turbo car would be strange.

I wonder how you would tune it

lol @ LPG. Dude do you even know what you're talking about?

it has been done before. and in the case i read allowed for much higher boost levels

One option i have concidered it to do an LPG conversion and then you can have the power and economy. LPG loves high compression and so you vould really boosts it.

Yes you would have to really boost it.....to try and get the power back that 98RON gives you.

If your gonna get gas, get N20.

Edited by KeyMaker
I call lies on this one.

especially the GTiR with a bit done to it.

My S14 had 175rwkw with the usual mods of exhaust, intake, boost and FMIC.

an R33 with the same power can't keep up with them.

GTiR specs:

curb weight - 1220kg

accelleration 0-100kmph - 5.9 seconds

accelleration 0-400m - 13.9 seconds

max power output - 227hp @ 6400rpm (or 171.5 kw)

max torque - approx. 290 nm

R33 GTST specs:

Curb Weight - 1390 Kg

Max. Power; kW/HP 187/250 @ 6400 rpm

Max. Torque 294NM @ 4800 rpm

accelleration 0-100kmph - 6.96 seconds

accelleration 0-400m - 14.30 s

so.. you had stock boost, exhaust and fmic..

he had "a bit of work"

how do you figure you beat a car lighter by 170kg and only making 16kw and 4NM less in standard trim.

same mods done to a GTiR would would tear you a new a-hole.

only way youd win is on a roll from like 120kms onwards..

not that this has anything to do with this thread.

as for this thread.

S14 is better than R32 (with RB20det) on power and fuel.

Looks - R32 GTST is a better looking car than an S14 series 1.

interior on the S14 is better than an R32 GTST

S14 series 2 is better than R32 GTST in any comparison.

Formula goes like this.

R33 S2 > S14A > S14 > R32 > R33 S1

here are my ones..

Stolen S14 with no insurance for the lose

92 R32 GTST

GTiR with 180kwatw would keep up with my 200kw GTR. lol easy..

so a 135kw atw std power iR would own a GTST.. easy..

S14a over all skyline part from R34 or BNR32

it has been done before. and in the case i read allowed for much higher boost levels

The biggest problem with LPG is the agricultural delivery mechanism is quite restrictive as they were designed for low tech low performance engines and haven't had much development since the carby days.

I read an article recently about a new LPG system that didn't restrict airflow as much and they got very good results on an XR6 turbo.

LPG does have a very high octane rating hence the ability to run high compression and high boost - you can usually only realise this benefit by having an LPG only system, although the XR6 turbo mentioned above was dual fuel.

The cost of the decent LPG conversion was pretty expensive though (somewhere between $5K-$10K I think) - it would take a long time to recoup the costs, and is a big % of the cost of the total car.

The old style dual fuel LPG systems would never keep up with a 98RON powered car.

cheers

Mike

I get my R33 down to 10.2L/100km when driving like a granny (don't rev over 3K or hit boost)

Most of the SR20DET's are roughly about the same too, give or take a half a litre.

It sort of defeats the purpose of such engines keeping them off some sort of boost all the time and you may as well just buy a Commodore, Camry or equivalent in vehicular whitegoods and a bowls hat for the rear parcel shelf.

lol

find my old GTiR and run that lol.

i pwned my mates 250kw 265R18 wheeled ECR33 off the line and held him off.. lol. why traction no weight and SR powah. R33 are slow std.

sure, It will loose.

Cool.

thanks for your input.

No Problem. :w00t:

Hey man.. you can't come in here and quote real life experiences.

especially if it's against skylines.

you're going to ruin peoples dreams.

No way a Pulsar hatch can beat a skyline.

Skylines are sports car's y0!

Your so Cool.

I didnt want to bother bringing it up but ok.

stock vs stock, Sure GTiR will win. But only by 0.04 on Q/M. ET.

Few simple Breathing mods. on both cars. The RB25 gets more power per mod than the GTiR. for Example ie. Zaust, Pod, FMIC.

For Example.

GTiR, FMIC, Custom 3" pipework and Blitz BOV, Power FC, Pod, CAI, Exhaust, = 165-175awkw (give or take) @ 16psi Weighting in about 1250kgs. This one on question had 165awkw. possibly low reading dyno?

R33 Gtst, Zaust, Pod, Cai, FMIC, everything else stock. = 180rwkw > 195rwkw (some examples have gotten more just a rought example) Mine actually turned out 194rwkw. @ 11psi Weighing in about 1360kgs.

GTiR -> floggs the GTST off the line, every time, By about 80km's, GTST Passes the GTiR, to win to 160 by about 4 car lengths. Every time.

Tests were done on Private closed controlled Conditions of course :). You seem to believe they are faster than they actually are.

Edited by silverbulletR33

Oh yea, and the GTiR had Lightweight Volk Wheels too.

Dont get me wrong, I love the little GTiR, I have had the pleasure of driving the one mentioned above, and even got to race it a few times, do a few launches. Great little cars And they launch Insanely hard. Around a track though, Im pretty sure the GTiR would've killed me :w00t:

i'd take an S14a over any R32 or R33 gtst

although i believe an R32 can look nice with a GTR front, i love hte look of hte S14a any day

the R33 is the (very) ugly duckling of the skyline family, i would stay away

the only issue with the S14 is that interior-wise its fairly plain, unlike the skylines

my 2c? well my 2c if really only worth 1c but i'll give it anyway..

...get an S14a

you can get just as much power from lpg if you tune it right.

you need more timing advance and computer can take car of that and with the right installation you have a sub computer to control the lpg flowrate.

as i said before lpg loves high compression (19:1) so it would work really well with hight boost.

Also they can do lpg multi point injection now & it costs $4000

Edited by megabuff

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...