Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

LPG on a turbo car would be strange.

I wonder how you would tune it

lol @ LPG. Dude do you even know what you're talking about?

it has been done before. and in the case i read allowed for much higher boost levels

One option i have concidered it to do an LPG conversion and then you can have the power and economy. LPG loves high compression and so you vould really boosts it.

Yes you would have to really boost it.....to try and get the power back that 98RON gives you.

If your gonna get gas, get N20.

Edited by KeyMaker
I call lies on this one.

especially the GTiR with a bit done to it.

My S14 had 175rwkw with the usual mods of exhaust, intake, boost and FMIC.

an R33 with the same power can't keep up with them.

GTiR specs:

curb weight - 1220kg

accelleration 0-100kmph - 5.9 seconds

accelleration 0-400m - 13.9 seconds

max power output - 227hp @ 6400rpm (or 171.5 kw)

max torque - approx. 290 nm

R33 GTST specs:

Curb Weight - 1390 Kg

Max. Power; kW/HP 187/250 @ 6400 rpm

Max. Torque 294NM @ 4800 rpm

accelleration 0-100kmph - 6.96 seconds

accelleration 0-400m - 14.30 s

so.. you had stock boost, exhaust and fmic..

he had "a bit of work"

how do you figure you beat a car lighter by 170kg and only making 16kw and 4NM less in standard trim.

same mods done to a GTiR would would tear you a new a-hole.

only way youd win is on a roll from like 120kms onwards..

not that this has anything to do with this thread.

as for this thread.

S14 is better than R32 (with RB20det) on power and fuel.

Looks - R32 GTST is a better looking car than an S14 series 1.

interior on the S14 is better than an R32 GTST

S14 series 2 is better than R32 GTST in any comparison.

Formula goes like this.

R33 S2 > S14A > S14 > R32 > R33 S1

here are my ones..

Stolen S14 with no insurance for the lose

92 R32 GTST

GTiR with 180kwatw would keep up with my 200kw GTR. lol easy..

so a 135kw atw std power iR would own a GTST.. easy..

S14a over all skyline part from R34 or BNR32

it has been done before. and in the case i read allowed for much higher boost levels

The biggest problem with LPG is the agricultural delivery mechanism is quite restrictive as they were designed for low tech low performance engines and haven't had much development since the carby days.

I read an article recently about a new LPG system that didn't restrict airflow as much and they got very good results on an XR6 turbo.

LPG does have a very high octane rating hence the ability to run high compression and high boost - you can usually only realise this benefit by having an LPG only system, although the XR6 turbo mentioned above was dual fuel.

The cost of the decent LPG conversion was pretty expensive though (somewhere between $5K-$10K I think) - it would take a long time to recoup the costs, and is a big % of the cost of the total car.

The old style dual fuel LPG systems would never keep up with a 98RON powered car.

cheers

Mike

I get my R33 down to 10.2L/100km when driving like a granny (don't rev over 3K or hit boost)

Most of the SR20DET's are roughly about the same too, give or take a half a litre.

It sort of defeats the purpose of such engines keeping them off some sort of boost all the time and you may as well just buy a Commodore, Camry or equivalent in vehicular whitegoods and a bowls hat for the rear parcel shelf.

lol

find my old GTiR and run that lol.

i pwned my mates 250kw 265R18 wheeled ECR33 off the line and held him off.. lol. why traction no weight and SR powah. R33 are slow std.

sure, It will loose.

Cool.

thanks for your input.

No Problem. :w00t:

Hey man.. you can't come in here and quote real life experiences.

especially if it's against skylines.

you're going to ruin peoples dreams.

No way a Pulsar hatch can beat a skyline.

Skylines are sports car's y0!

Your so Cool.

I didnt want to bother bringing it up but ok.

stock vs stock, Sure GTiR will win. But only by 0.04 on Q/M. ET.

Few simple Breathing mods. on both cars. The RB25 gets more power per mod than the GTiR. for Example ie. Zaust, Pod, FMIC.

For Example.

GTiR, FMIC, Custom 3" pipework and Blitz BOV, Power FC, Pod, CAI, Exhaust, = 165-175awkw (give or take) @ 16psi Weighting in about 1250kgs. This one on question had 165awkw. possibly low reading dyno?

R33 Gtst, Zaust, Pod, Cai, FMIC, everything else stock. = 180rwkw > 195rwkw (some examples have gotten more just a rought example) Mine actually turned out 194rwkw. @ 11psi Weighing in about 1360kgs.

GTiR -> floggs the GTST off the line, every time, By about 80km's, GTST Passes the GTiR, to win to 160 by about 4 car lengths. Every time.

Tests were done on Private closed controlled Conditions of course :). You seem to believe they are faster than they actually are.

Edited by silverbulletR33

Oh yea, and the GTiR had Lightweight Volk Wheels too.

Dont get me wrong, I love the little GTiR, I have had the pleasure of driving the one mentioned above, and even got to race it a few times, do a few launches. Great little cars And they launch Insanely hard. Around a track though, Im pretty sure the GTiR would've killed me :w00t:

i'd take an S14a over any R32 or R33 gtst

although i believe an R32 can look nice with a GTR front, i love hte look of hte S14a any day

the R33 is the (very) ugly duckling of the skyline family, i would stay away

the only issue with the S14 is that interior-wise its fairly plain, unlike the skylines

my 2c? well my 2c if really only worth 1c but i'll give it anyway..

...get an S14a

you can get just as much power from lpg if you tune it right.

you need more timing advance and computer can take car of that and with the right installation you have a sub computer to control the lpg flowrate.

as i said before lpg loves high compression (19:1) so it would work really well with hight boost.

Also they can do lpg multi point injection now & it costs $4000

Edited by megabuff

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...