Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just brought a stock standard r32 gtr. (and I mean stock standard )

I'm not sure how powerfull or restrictive they are with the stock parts, but I swear I felt a

lot more kick in my old car ( old car = r32 gtst, fmic, exhaust, r33 turbo, hks opod filter )

Does this sound right??

I do feel that there is power, but I dont feel much pull. I heard that a stock gtr is supposed to be quick.

In first gear it lags unitl about 3000 rpm, then a small kick, then at about 5000rpm it kind of levels out

The revs continue to climb but only at a steady pace.

The same thing happens in second.

By third gear it feels quick but thats because it's already been an eternity and i'm already going over 1ookm.

The engine sounds fine but just sounds lioke it's working very hard after 5000rpm for not much gain.

ALL I'M REALLY CONCERNED ABOUT IS THAT HAVE I BLOWN A TURBO(S) OR IS THE STOCK SET UP VERY RESTRICTIVE.

It doesnt bother me if it's not quick, but I just need to know if it's as quick as it can be for the current set up.

Does anyone have any insight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191343-stcok-standard-r32gtr/
Share on other sites

First thing you should be checking is smoke pouring out your exhaust if a blown turbo is suspected to be the culprit.

I cant comment much on the gtr stock as a rock performance, but as far as I am aware they are referred to as very quick stock, but referring to stock as upgraded exhaust, filters, boost etc. Thats when they crack the 12sec barriers.

How much power was the R32gtst putting out? Id assume around 185-190rwkw. That is still fairly quick in the lighter r32, probaly a mid to low 13sec car.

It is an interesting comparison.

Also it depends on your drivnig style. As we all know not everyone likes to be launching there r32gtst with the weak gearbox, so you may have adapted a similar driving style with the GTR. Go to the drags, rev it to 6000rpm, side step the clutch (if it can handle the power?) and im sure you will then witness what the GTR is all about.

I'd be interested to know what others think.

Also it depends on your drivnig style. As we all know not everyone likes to be launching there r32gtst with the weak gearbox, so you may have adapted a similar driving style with the GTR. Go to the drags, rev it to 6000rpm, side step the clutch (if it can handle the power?) and im sure you will then witness what the GTR is all about.

I'd be interested to know what others think.

thats a fair comment...

Becuase the engine sounds and feels fine, or very good.

And there feels to be a lot of potential with minor mods...but I thought I would feel a lot more torque with a stock set up, thats all.

You felt a 'kick' from the R32 as you had a turbo that was a tad laggy.

So it ramped up onto boost differently.

The GTR is stock, whilst they are not slow in stock form, they arent exactly a rocketship either.

I suggest taking the car to a performance mechanic and have them inspect the car if you are unsure of it.

You felt a 'kick' from the R32 as you had a turbo that was a tad laggy.

So it ramped up onto boost differently.

The GTR is stock, whilst they are not slow in stock form, they arent exactly a rocketship either.

I suggest taking the car to a performance mechanic and have them inspect the car if you are unsure of it.

Agreed any car with stock boost generally delivers power in a very linear fashion.

Dont take it out and thrash it, if there is a problem you will only make it worse- get it checked out by someone that knows gtr's and can check the tune as in the AFR's.

at least then you can drive your new car knowing its all good.

If you are worried I would suggest the following:

First up, check the timing. Insufficient ignition advance will make the car feel sluggish.

If that is ok then take it to a dyno & get it run up. Check the AFR's while you are there.

Then you will know for sure.

What you need to remember is that you very quickly get used to how "fast" a car feels - particularly a turbo car as it lacks immediate torque. As often as not a car with a flat torque curve will feel slower than one with an uneven one. Despite the first of the two being quicker.

Wait I know a guy with a r32 gtr with only pod filters (that he knows of) and it made 228rwkw not awkw. and runs like high 8's down an 8th mile (200m) the dyno may have been a little high maybe but it does pull away from my 200rwkw r33

Edited by RPR33

dude if it flatens out at 5k check your running 20deg of timing, some people 'tune' them to run on 'aussie fuel' aka 91oct and run them at like 10deg of timing to stop any chance of pinging. that would make it feel like it goes ok when the turbos come on boost then die in the ass just after.

thanks for all inputs...

I hope it is a timing issue and I also suspect it to be a fuel issue.

I dont want to touch the timing as I dont really know what i'm doing...

Gonna book in for a dyno and get the timing looked at

Once again, It doesnt bother me if it's not zippy because I intended on slowly building it up anyway.

At the time of purchase I had a workshop check it. compression test it and they also sais the car drove well..

The compression was (i cant remember exact) around 160 with only 5 psi diffence between all cylinders..

The only faults they could point were some minor leaks in the engine which should have been fixed for the RWC..

It's just disappointing because I thought I had something I could start fresh on....

However all may just be well,, wait till the dyno results and someone a bit more GTR knowledge to look at it.

Sounds dirty! I mean you should check the AFM's/AAC valve/intercooler/throttle body etc etc. because they all affect boost response and A/F ratios.

I'm no expert but common sense is you should do basic maintenance like that (esp. on an old car) before checking for turbo wear or anything else more serious.

The GTR should be zippy. You shouldn't have a doubt that its quick!

The only stock standard GTR I went in was really really disappointing. Was running stock boost, stock exhaust, stock everything - I struggled to believe it.... I had a semi-wanked up NA Honda which was pretty comparable in acceleration (dodges flames).

The new owner of the otherwise mint R32 GTR trucked on and did a full service, got it a very unrestrictive full exhaust system, pod filters and an electronic boost controller for it and ran 1bar of boost. He was pretty happy with it and told me I should come for a drive to see if I thought it was better - to be fair I didn't have overly high expectations after how horrid it felt before. Seriously, the thing lost traction when it hit full boost in first and had my whole hearted attention from that point forward. It felt like it was designed to be like that... like Nissan would have liked to have done it from factory but knew they shouldn't, so set it up so you really HAD TO.

Edited by Lithium

Yeah, when first got my car I got bored of the stock power very quickly, leaving me with the same questions as you. If it was really meant to be like that, or if my car had some problem.

Turned out to be coming on boost rather late compared to a friend's GTR. After a thorough inspection, it turned out that the turbo fins were kinda chipped and worn, but still functional.

A change of turbos, ecu, ebc, etc. and with a much lighter wallet, I got a 135rwkw gain at the time, without any extra lag :blink:

When it was stock it was dynoed at 165rwkw :P

Needless to say, I was stoked with 300rwkw, too bad that feeling of contentment didnt last long, or else I would be a much richer person now :blink:

Edited by Yawn
Turned out to be coming on boost rather late compared to a friend's GTR. After a thorough inspection, it turned out that the turbo fins were kinda chipped and worn, but still functional.

How did you find that out? Removed the piping around the turbo's? Cause i'm experiencing boost loss, wanna fix it asap!

Basically my mechanics singled that out as the problem from their past experiences and after checking everything else. I didn't actually take anything out to confirm that was definitely the problem.

So i just assumed that was the problem and starting planning for turbo upgrades. Only when the stockies finally came out did I find that out for sure.

But in saying that, I was going to change turbos anyway, so I didn't want to spend unnecessary money just to check if the fins were screwed and then putting everything back on.

Personally i think its suffering from stock car syndrome.

I drove an r33 gtr earlier this year and i found it very slow. I remember mentioning to Lithium on the net later that i was very dissapointed. My s14 was much faster simply due to the weight difference which i think is your problem here also.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...