Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey

I am looking at getting a basic custom boot install done in my R32.

I have all the audio gear and have run all the wiring so all I need is the fabrication of the actual sub box and panels, as well as the carpeting.

Just wanted to know if anyone can recommend a place which does good work?

I called a place in Melbourne and they quoted me $500 for a custom sub box and panels, which I thought was a bit steep as I have already done all the wiring and am supplying all the audio equipment.

Anyways if someone could recommend a place they have used/seen work done at, it would be much appreciated.

Audio gear to be installed is 2 x amps and 2 x 12" subs, just need fake floor, and dual sub box, and side panels all carpeted and installed in an R32 boot.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191474-custom-boot-install-r32/
Share on other sites

$500 Steep.

You gotta be kidding me mate. Panelling and trimming takes time and running your cables only takes an installer a half an hour at the most.

Sorry to say but if u got quoted $500 take the offer, because custom boots normally end up costing thousands.

$500 Steep.

You gotta be kidding me mate. Panelling and trimming takes time and running your cables only takes an installer a half an hour at the most.

Sorry to say but if u got quoted $500 take the offer, because custom boots normally end up costing thousands.

Second that

I am getting a basic install done next week at a cost of $2500

I am supplying all wiring/amps/sub/sound deadening and I was quoted for a very basic install (two amp racks built into a false floor and a MDF sub box) all flat panels, no fibreglass etc with just a plexiglass panel showing each amp.

$500 Steep.

You gotta be kidding me mate. Panelling and trimming takes time and running your cables only takes an installer a half an hour at the most.

Sorry to say but if u got quoted $500 take the offer, because custom boots normally end up costing thousands.

Nup, $500 I believe is still a bit to much for the work I need done.

I understand that labour takes time + cost of materials, but $500 was a minimum quote and I'd rather just do it my self or get it done privately if I'm paying that much.

Second that

I am getting a basic install done next week at a cost of $2500

I am supplying all wiring/amps/sub/sound deadening and I was quoted for a very basic install (two amp racks built into a false floor and a MDF sub box) all flat panels, no fibreglass etc with just a plexiglass panel showing each amp.

$2,500?

Well judging by what your getting done that seems like a straight out rip off, considering I was quoted a minmum of $500 for pretty much the same work.

Edited by abu
mate clearly you don't know much about custom installs... I'd jump at gettin it done for $500.... like seriously think about the time involved let alone materials and stuff...

if u wan2 spend less than that do it yourself...

Nup, $500 I believe is still a bit to much for the work I need done.

I understand that labour takes time + cost of materials, but $500 was a minimum quote and I'd rather just do it my self or get it done privately if I'm paying that much.

Nup, $500 I believe is still a bit to much for the work I need done.

I understand that labour takes time + cost of materials, but $500 was a minimum quote and I'd rather just do it my self or get it done privately if I'm paying that much.

$2,500?

Well judging by what your getting done that seems like a straight out rip off, considering I was quoted a minmum of $500 for pretty much the same work.

Mate there is almost that just in a sub box alone

Then plexiglass is not cheap

Sound deadening is around the $300 mark for installation

Painting the installation $200 odd

Boot install is between $800-$1500 including amp racks, then on top of that is sub box and sound deadening.

Most shops charge on average $70-$100 per hour plus materials, I would like to see quality work done , from start to finish for $500.

FHRX is doing my car - i dont like cheap dodgy crap in my car.

$2500 is reasonable considering the time, and quality finish I am after.

Did you get your quote from autobarn?

Paid $1400 for mine... Was actually a pretty good deal, when i got it back, I just stared at it, and it wasn't even finished :P

I still love the look of it and it has a little bit left to finish too :)

If it had cost me only $500, I would have been f**king ecstatic!

I took it apart as soon as i got home, had a look at it, realised that if i had tried to do it (my original plan) I would have been at it for well over 3 months just trying to figure out all the tricks and skills they used... I was really impressed at how easily it all came apart... i was scared shitless at first... It looked so complete, I figured it would take me ages to get it apart and back together :)

But I asked for easy accesability/install/uninstall, and that is what I got :)

$500 - are you kidding !! FFS take it! (dont bitch about hte quality though.) hell I wouldnt even look twice at that for under $1500.

for the $500 you want me to supply MDF, CARPET,VINYL,PERSPEX and time - ahh -- NO!

If you(yourself) have the wiring part coverd....Just find a good local cabinet maker(what i used to do) to make the boxes,cut out holes for your subs,mount brackets to hold your amps....its just time consuming.

Done & Done!

You get what you pay for, so for $500 you can't expect much. That'd be basic materials (MDF+carpet) and a couple hours labour only?

Well basically yeah, that’s all I was after.

No glass or perspex and shit, just a basic install for 2 x subs under the parcel shelf in custom box, 2 x amps on the floor with fake walls and floor.

Labour + MDF + carpet = $500, thats what I'm trying to price up.

The place that quoted me is a well known Audio shop, and they do very quality work from what I have seen.

But like I said, starting price was $500, so could be more depending on specifics such as perspex and glass additions.

If you(yourself) have the wiring part coverd....Just find a good local cabinet maker(what i used to do) to make the boxes,cut out holes for your subs,mount brackets to hold your amps....its just time consuming.

Done & Done!

Yeah my uncle is a cabinet maker for JAYCO carvans, so free MDF and cutting.

Will just need to pay for carpet, glue etc. Thats what I have always done in the past, but this time around I CBF as I am working full time Monday - Friday and don't want to spend weekend after weekend getting a boost install finished while the car sits in the garage taking up space. Plus I will give up half way :D

Well thats not a custom boot is it.

Well it's not stock is it? Making it custom!

Edited by abu

I don't want any fancy shit with neons and glass and crap, just want a custom box under the parcel shelf with 2 x 12" subs, and fake walls and fake floor with 2 x amps on the floor.

All carpeted and mounted neatly.

Edited by abu
Come to Auto Salon to see it...

Only a very small handful of people have seen it yet... and it's not finished technically...

Not that keen to see it, plus your in NSW and I am in VIC...

Thanks anyways.

Edited by abu

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...