Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bleed valves will always always always spike then return. manufacturers can argue this point till they're blue in the face but they're shifting the truth sideways... :(

dna make the best one that I have seen in practice with a significantly smaller, (but still there) level of spiking. boost leveles also remained steadier than the turbosmart ones they had there too...

i think they wanted 80 bux for the ones they had at the dyno day.

** I have no assocition with dna whatsoever. just calling it how i saw it **

Originally posted by Nizmo

yeah i have dodgy homemade one on my car .... it was like that when i bought it - does do the job but not as good as a proper one - lets just say its as open as it will go on my car :(

I had to drill my homemade one out a bit to let more air through. Now I can adjust between 7 and 15 psi. It hits 12 psi at about 3500rpm and stays on it all the way to the redline.

"does it bring on boost earlier"

Originally posted by 2fardown  

This is a very debatable subject.  I personaly did experience an earlier spool up but there are some experts on here that will prove otherwise.

No expert can prove that they won't bring on boost earlier for the simple reason that they do! OK, before anyone gets all emotional, they can never do as good of a gob as a EBC but they WILL help.

Read this, It is explained how bleed valves do it.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ght=bleed+valve

If your going to muck around with bleed valve systems this is a good thread to read as well.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ght=bleed+valve

My R32 holds 10.9PSI all the way to 7500rpm if I take it there.

With the Bleeder no matter what I set it to it would drop down to around 12psi. With the stock IC it would drop to around 12psi and with the fmic it would drop to 12psi. It is the turbo running out of puff.

The max I could get out of the bleeder (rwkw) was 155rwkw.

When I fitted the FMIC a lighter tune with less timing and holding 1 bar of boost to redline made 164rwkw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...