Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

do u guys think its possible to guard roll 3cm?

ive just got my hands on some dirt cheap gtc's but they wont fit and ive worked out that its around a 3cm increase on the rears and 80mm on the front.

anyone who has done guard rolling could u give me some tips?

also how much would this cost? :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191775-guard-rolling-limit/
Share on other sites

You can flare your guards 30mm, but it'll just gonna f**k up your guards and paint. On the S13's, a dent appears after flaring about 10mm. So it doesn't take much to f**k up your body.

Best bet would be to throw some negative camber on it with stretch tyres.

You can flare your guards 30mm, but it'll just gonna f**k up your guards and paint. On the S13's, a dent appears after flaring about 10mm. So it doesn't take much to f**k up your body.

Its not necessarily going to f**k up his guards, but the chances are there that it may happen. S13 guards don't always dent when flaring by more than 10mm, i've seen some flared 30mm with no dent!

R34NRG- What are the widths and offset's of the rims?

just raise your car a little dude... my wheels stick out by 3 cm's on the rear end...

stretch some tires on & ur laughing.

No point having shit hot wheels and having it sit like a 4wd. It needs to be lowered to gain the neccessary camber. Increasing the height will make it stick out further.

Andru, what happened to those 75mm widebody kit u were gonna get???

You can flare your guards 30mm, but it'll just gonna f**k up your guards and paint. On the S13's, a dent appears after flaring about 10mm. So it doesn't take much to f**k up your body.

Best bet would be to throw some negative camber on it with stretch tyres.

i heard s13s have the weakest guards there are and thats why they crack and flake alot.

Its not necessarily going to f**k up his guards, but the chances are there that it may happen. S13 guards don't always dent when flaring by more than 10mm, i've seen some flared 30mm with no dent!

R34NRG- What are the widths and offset's of the rims?

FRONT

19 X 8.5 +27

235/35/19

REAR

19 X 9.5 +24

245/35/19

No point having shit hot wheels and having it sit like a 4wd. It needs to be lowered to gain the neccessary camber. Increasing the height will make it stick out further.

Andru, what happened to those 75mm widebody kit u were gonna get???

i kinda bought 5k+ rims and spent another 2000 on suspension. so i dont really have the funds to go wide body atm. so i guess the next best thing is workn the guards

Rolling guards wont get you 30mm.

You need to install some flares or flare your guards. Either option requires significant work with painting involved and a big change to the look of your car. Just to fit some wheels.

yeh i know wat u mean but i just keep thinkin how shit hot its gonna be.....and i gotta do it lol

just some pics of the ones i bought

post-23512-1193437577524983320.jpg

post-23512-1193437590847368511.jpg

post-23512-11934376051967289538.jpg

post-23512-11934376211751254292.jpg

post-23512-11934376342054732188.jpg

Edited by R34NRG

Nice choice on wheels.

Those offsets and width don't seem to be that low or wide. Are you sure you need guard modifications to fit the wheels? I don't know 34 guards so please ignore my inexperience if they clearly don't fit.

I know I've asked you how wide your wheels are currently, but I've forgotten. How wide are your wheels again? I always assumed skylines had the same guard clearance as the silvias. I've seen a few S13's with ~9" wheels with 0 offsets and they only needed guards rolled.

Edit: The S13's would've had stretched tyres.

Edited by adam-__-

Yeah, from what I've seen in my calculations, there's not much you can do. You're gonna have to put on some stretched tyres and put some neg camber or just flare your guards.

I never realised how high of a offset you have to run on skylines. Like you said your current wheels of specs, 18x8 +35 with 230/40 are pretty much flush with the rear, these are 18x9 +15 , 225/40 with neg 2 camber on a 180sx:

post-32186-1194079689_thumb.jpg

With these wheels and tyres on your car, they'll stick out and extra ~35mm.

they ARE rolled...

you do realise rolling guards is only 'rolling' up the inside edge of the wheel? the outside of the panel doesnt change or move, thats called flaring.

and whilst flaring might be 'cheap' to do, it will need to be resprayed.

Yeah, from what I've seen in my calculations, there's not much you can do. You're gonna have to put on some stretched tyres and put some neg camber or just flare your guards.

I never realised how high of a offset you have to run on skylines. Like you said your current wheels of specs, 18x8 +35 with 230/40 are pretty much flush with the rear, these are 18x9 +15 , 225/40 with neg 2 camber on a 180sx:

post-32186-1194079689_thumb.jpg

With these wheels and tyres on your car, they'll stick out and extra ~35mm.

if they're genuine R34 wheels the specs are 18x9 +30 not +15

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...