Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ppls

ive got a CF bonnet with stupid bonnet pins and i wana take them off but obviously there will be 2 holes. Would it be pretty easy for a place to fix up the 2 holes and then respray it all again ? and assuming they knew what they were doing would i be able to tell it was ever fixed up ? i dunno how CF works..

also how much do you guys rekon a job like that is worth ?? and anyone in melb wana do it for me ??

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191837-cf-bonnet-fixing-holes/
Share on other sites

1) even East bear supply pins and highly recommend you fit them to ensure that the bonnet is fixed and safe from breakages from vibration.

2) any patching of the carbon will show up as the would be no way to match the Weave pattern to hide it, unless you were painting it to match the car and removing the carbon look.

3) patch the holes then get a new sheet of twill set onto the top of the existing bonnet should work onto the gel coat as it sticks to the other side but would be expensive

4) replace the pins with the aerocatch (sp?) the flush mounted pin system - legal i believe

5) wait for someone else to have a better suggestion - think its Noy that works at a carbon place in QLD - name escapes me now

Custom Carbon in queensland is no more

Noy might be able to advise on the hows an whys though

but I think craved is about spot on

has anyone seen the "aerocatch" pins in the flesh they look quite good on the net

sure some of the top secret cars use em to the supra maybe?

aerocatch latches look shit, too big and ugly IMO

thats why i sold mine

great bit of gear but shit looks

you selling yours Anthony was the first palce i saw them...

safety rarely looks good unfortunately

as long as the pins are adjusted low enough there wont be an issue

i use normal pins and have never had an issue with vibration or anything

ive heard heaps of people who use the stock latch complain about the bonnet wanting to fly off

normal pins and a secondary emergency restraint (bit of steel rope with clips or D shackles on either end) will keep everything nice and safe

thanks for all the info :w00t: it sounds like its not worth trying to take em off.

the car is white and has one of them black plastic lips, im thinking maybe ill leave the pins on and paint them either white or black or something. there blue atm.

pins come in different colours, plain silver for me.

the aerocatch ones will need a *big* hole in your bonnet but they look nice and safe and friendly - you won't put a pedestrians eye out with one of them

but normal pins are much easier to open the aerocatch ones are a bit fiddly

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...