Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looks the same as the bursons one Neil

Yea your right Chris and I'm starting to think all of them under $200 bucks are all the same.

That e-bay search is "Autolac" who are a paint supplier and have stock.

I'm just going to buy the cheapest one and fix it when it breaks.

Cheers

Neil.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Can anyone confirm whether rolling your guards, rears in particular is a defect? Ive been told that its considered altering the structural integrity of the car and as a result is a defect?

Also, for anyone interested, I bought one of the rollers off Ebay, seller is based in Adelaide so was able to go and collect it...paid around $150 for it, worked fine...I will add, be very careful rolling the rear guards on an R32, they are prone to denting along the lip if you try to stretch/flare the guard...it is the design of the guard, there is a tighter radius curve in the panel as it goes underneath and rolling this causes stress and creates dents. Im sure its not just R32s that this happens on, have seen other cars dented up as a result...

  • 1 month later...

As for rolling/ flaring heres my contribution, very smooth and free with my hammer ;) prob not many of you SAU blokes style but here goes..

post-77457-0-16112500-1301035657_thumb.jpg

post-77457-0-30682000-1301035716_thumb.jpg

first time aswell, was easy enough.

Edited by nik.
  • 3 weeks later...

When i got defected the inspectors almost made me get a engineers cert because they couldn't measure a proper eye brow height pinch.gif

Then they went on saying "it looks to been professionally done" so let me go.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Is that true that you cant roll front guards on GTR's?? and if you can is there anyone in perth area that can do it.

Also wondering this, on account of them being alloy.

I'm more interested in the rear gaurds though - want to get 11" under there and don't want to mess around with tons of bog or fibreglass.

  • 1 month later...

i went to get the rears rolled on my 32r a week ago and the length adjustment on the guard roller wouldn't go short enough :(

not sure if all are the same, but when we jacked up the car, the suspension wouldn't allow the rear hub to drop low enough. now i am outta ideas... any suggestions?

As for rolling/ flaring heres my contribution, very smooth and free with my hammer ;) prob not many of you SAU blokes style but here goes..

post-77457-0-16112500-1301035657_thumb.jpg

post-77457-0-30682000-1301035716_thumb.jpg

first time aswell, was easy enough.

how does that go over bumps? are you hitting the tyres?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...