Jump to content
SAU Community

Split Fire Coils Are They As Good As Stated

GTR 400

By GTR 400,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR 400 Enthusiast

GTR 400

Posted
Posted

Hi to all i just got my new Stage 2 Tomei poncams installed in my R32 gtr, with the adj cam gears, new iridium plugs gapped to 0.7,Sard 700cc injectors, split fire coils, and o44 pump with Apexi PF, etc etc tuned all together.

I seem to have a bad miss from about 5000rpm to 8000rpm its not over the complete range but random in this rev range, the split fires dont seem to be up to the task is there some way to amplify the spark delivery better because my spark plug gap is getting smaller all the time we cant open it up because of the miss on the dyno whilst tuning.

Very frustrating i heard in a previous old post that split fires are not as good as the originals is this true or does it happen that split fires do occasionaaly stuff up or might need to be amp up to get more spark, i am pushing 335Rwkw already and up but this is limiting me alot can anyone help please.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

The Splitfires are upto the task. They are the same as stock coils, and they are good for over 400rwkw.

You obviously have another issue with wiring/voltage or something there.

So talk to your tuner/auto elec and go over it. Its a 15+yr old car and they are starting to have these types of problems

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)
The Splitfires are upto the task. They are the same as stock coils, and they are good for over 400rwkw.

i thought splitfires provide a 10% stronger spark.

have i got it wrong?

Edited by Munkyb0y
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Who knows, no-one has really tested them back to back with brand new OEM coils (not 10yr old ones), and noted how much better they are.

I just say same as stock for the sake of the point im getting across is that he has other issues :(

13thracer Rising Star

13thracer

Posted
Posted

IGNITOR on its way out mine did the same thing with my splitfires swapped the ignitor with another one and problem solved FOR ME, anyway HKS have an ignition amp if you want to go that way i believe they have plug in adaptors for the kit now too. have a browse through nengun to get an idea on it :)

sly32 Proficient

sly32

Posted
Posted (edited)

i completely agree with the igniter been stuffed, split fires wont do that with you, also check that your exhuast (cat) isnt screwed, mine got screwed up and so i had no exhaust flow slowing the engine and causing a miss, thats my 2 parts

JV

Edited by sly32
sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted
i thought splitfires provide a 10% stronger spark.

have i got it wrong?

I don't think anyone claims that.

The reason people go for splitfires is the price. They are half as expensive as new coils, bolt straight in and are brand new versus your 10+ year old coils.

noone Experienced

noone

Posted
Posted

Uras posted some powerfc settings on here somewhere with his preferred settings for splitfires as the saturation curve on the coils is different to stock ones.

Havn't tried these settings myself yet but am planning to when the oportunity arises, changes were to dwell vs rpm i think

link here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...p;hl=splitfires

GTR 400 Enthusiast

GTR 400

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks guys i checked the cat we took it of and put a straight thru pipe ran it up and no change in power my cat is flowing, besides the miss , some say that maybe my cooler is a bottle neck i am running a JJR 100mm tube and fin with the standard rubber piping still.

I am going to check the wiring and see if the coils are getting the right amount of voltage for sure as this sucks i should be able to run more boost but cant.

Just curious can the split fire coils be amped anyway to increase the spark at all? not that they might need it but can it be done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...