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Hay guys..

Im doing a 25/30 conversion and Im looking for a sump adptor plate for an RB30 so as it will mate up to my front diff.

I know there is such a thing.

Does anyone have one?

How much?

Where from?

And how does it acctually work? If the wholes in the diff dont mate up to the holes in the bottom end, how do they get them to mate?

Cheers guys!

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192693-rb30-front-diff-adaptor-plate/
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Ive got one

I think its from Pro Engines in Canberra, or it could be the Fitzpatrick Speed Works one. I know that sounds wierd, but its one of those things you pay for and never see, you know what i mean :)

WHAT!?! $900!?!?!?!

For that price you'd almost expect an LSD to be thrown in as a free-bee!

Thanks for the imput guys!..

a couple of PM's have been sent.. so Ill have to see whats happening..

I just think that $900 is a stupendus amount of money!

Much appreciated fellas!

Been awesome help!

:huh:

well personally I reckon $900 is pretty bloody reasonable. have you ever seen a sump adapter? have any idea of the work they have put into developing and then producing it?

well personally I reckon $900 is pretty bloody reasonable. have you ever seen a sump adapter? have any idea of the work they have put into developing and then producing it?

Thats why it pays to shop around.. :)

thats why the thread was started.. and Shanes a good bloke :D

I just think.. $900 is a STUPIPD amount of money.. Especially for a uni kid!.. I figure.. with $900 I could get an awesome system! A re-tune, a shitload of random bits and peices - Seats, suspension goodies, guages etc. etc. etc. chip in a few hundred more.. and I got a Power FC, LSD, Coilovers, Brakes..

It just seems so much more practicle to spend that amount of money on other peices.

How many of the holes do aligne?

And with an adaptor plate.. if you put a place something between the block and the diff.. it will raise the block, or lower the diff. According to which one it does, it will play around with geometry of the front drive shaft and miss aligne it.

How do these adaptor plates work? Is it just a different diff housing?

what about re-drilling into the block/housing so as they to align?

Edited by GTS4WD

dude they have nothing to do with the diff at all. they go between the sump and the block. the diff does not sit under the block mate. it's beside the block. basically it allows you to bolt a GTR/GTS4 sump to a 30 block. again, the diff is not really in this equation at all except that the diff housing is integrated into the sump (hence the need to fit your original sump to a new block).

WHAT!?! $900!?!?!?!

For that price you'd almost expect an LSD to be thrown in as a free-bee!

Thanks for the imput guys!..

a couple of PM's have been sent.. so Ill have to see whats happening..

I just think that $900 is a stupendus amount of money!

Much appreciated fellas!

Been awesome help!

:)

$900 is a fair bit of money, depends how much you value your own time. For $900 you get an adaptor plate that fits, the bolt holes are drilled, tapped and countersunk in a CNC mill, a silicone relief is milled in the plate, the same design as the original sump so it actually does seal oil, you get every fastener needed to bolt it all up, laser cut steel templates to notch the block, a pickup that fits inside the sump, so no need for complicated external pickups even detailed instructions on how to fit it.

Then again, you could buy a piece of 10mm steel plate for $30, a bench drill at super cheap for $50 and a piece of chalk and do it yourself... It sounds like a lot of money until you try to do it yourself. A few people on this forum or gtr.co.uk have bought them and seem quite happy with them.

post-8303-1194863983_thumb.jpg

post-8303-1194864032_thumb.jpg

Maybe I should add a sticker with some catchy jengrish phrase like "The joy of sump bolting" and make it $1000 :blush:

900 is pretty good if ask me, as said by pro engine, consider the time etc to make one, cnc machined quality and all the bit included, not to mention it 100% works by sealing the oil and its strong, have a look at the bottom of an rb26 block and then look at the bottom of your rb30 block, then think about making one that will actually seal and be as strong yourself at home, and yeh i think they're about 10mm thick so it's lower your sump 10mm and that means lowering your diff so yeh the drive shafts will be missaligned and put more pressue on the cv joints. so you might want to raise the engine from the mounts by 10mm to keep the sump where it was orignally and yes you probably will have clearance issue's up top given the extra 30mm extra up top the rb30 block has over other rb engines. :(

(biggest turn off doing the conversion in a gtr not a gtt/gtst :domokun: )

Edited by s13_Skyline_inside
Maybe I should add a sticker with some catchy jengrish phrase like "The joy of sump bolting" and make it $1000 :ermm:

Having seen the Proengines kit I can tell you it is excellent. Remember also that you will soak up a lot of time and money rooting about if you go with an external pick up unless you've got access to someone that has done it before, so effectively the plate is only $550 or so.

Greg I think we need to work on your Japlish. For example 'The strong freedom of the rising sump power, you feel' is more accurate. :D

Edited by Scooby
900 is pretty good if ask me, as said by pro engine, consider the time etc to make one, cnc machined quality and all the bit included, not to mention it 100% works by sealing the oil and its strong, have a look at the bottom of an rb26 block and then look at the bottom of your rb30 block, then think about making one that will actually seal and be as strong yourself at home, and yeh i think they're about 10mm thick so it's lower your sump 10mm and that means lowering your diff so yeh the drive shafts will be missaligned and put more pressue on the cv joints. so you might want to raise the engine from the mounts by 10mm to keep the sump where it was orignally and yes you probably will have clearance issue's up top given the extra 30mm extra up top the rb30 block has over other rb engines. :D

(biggest turn off doing the conversion in a gtr not a gtt/gtst :( )

i dont think the 10mm would make that much difference to the cvs, cause at the end of the day thats what they are designed to do, otherwise everytime there was travel in the suspension or anyone that lowered a gts4/gtr would be snapping shafts left right and centre

i'll most likely get one of these kits as soon as my build date gets a bit closer :O

Stupid amount of money for a uni kid?

So why try build a 25/30 into a 4WD if your a "uni kid" that 'cant afford'

You either pay good money for good work, or mediocre money for shit :ninja:

Alright.. settle down.. No need to get ur panties in a twist.. :O Its just alot more than I expected it to be.

I work hard for my money so why not spend it on something I enjoy?..

hmm.. theres been some good points raised guys!

Definately worth thinking about..

Its alright.. its just gonna take me a little longer to finish the build.. :( no worries..

Thanks again guys!.. And feel free to add more ideas/criticism im just sorting out my parts and ideas for the build.. so every bit helps.. :D

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