Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there, just bought a R33 Series 2 GTS25t and the oil is BLACK like totally black :/:spank::worship::worship::glare::):worship: , obviously the last owner hasnt changed the oil in a while so i want to flush the engine and was wondering what the best way to go about it is? Cheers.

Just do multiple oil and filter changes within a few kms, like a day's worth of driving, or around the block of eachother. Depends if u wanna do 2 oil changes in a day or not. haha. Also stay away from "engine oil flush" additives...rumor has it they no good for the motor. Have fun.

correct me if im wrong but from what i have read, having black oil is good.. it means its actually doing its job.. alot of the good oil have additives that clean ur engine so it would be suspended in oil for your next service.. having clean looking oil doesnt necessarily mean clean engine etc.. 2c worth

The only reason why people would get shitty about using an engine flush is that when they are used, they will remove a lot of carbon buildup on the piston rings, which in some cases is the only thing that is sealing the compression of the motor from worn rings. They're actually quite effective.

Drop your oil. Fill it with new oil, run it in with an engine flush and then drop it again, if its doing its job properly it will be black as. So that when you fill it once more it should be fine

The only reason why people would get shitty about using an engine flush is that when they are used, they will remove a lot of carbon buildup on the piston rings, which in some cases is the only thing that is sealing the compression of the motor from worn rings. They're actually quite effective.

Corrected :thumbsup: haha

Mate best way is to use engine flush then drop oil

and maybe repeat process once if fussy depends

on how badly fouled it is inside the engine.With my

car I change it every 3000km and after every track

day with out fail.This is a must if you want a good

reliable engine, oil is cheap rebuilds are expensive.

I have personally seen cam sharfts snap in 2 through

lack of oil changes.Always use full synthetic oil and

you can repeat your engine flush every time you change

your oil just to be safe in get it back to square one.My

oil after 3000km is just starting to lose its colour,you

have to remember that these cars see alot of revs

and take a huge amount of heat.Hope this helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's not a transistor --- it's marked ZD1 which makes it a zener diode. As to what the breakdown voltage is, not enough there to divine.
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
×
×
  • Create New...