Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

Quick question about having difference wheel circumfence between back and front wheels!

Is 20mm diff too much and will it upset the 4WD system? I would think that 20mm would be like a set of new boots on the front and used on the rear.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193096-gtr-wheels/
Share on other sites

hmmm bugga!

looks like i will out with the tape measure checking out some different profiles then. still its quite strange that less then 1 mm of tread wear will get you about 20mm of circum difference. Which should happen with normal wear between front and rear.

I think a 245 x 45 x 18 will be close to a 285 x 35 x 18

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193096-gtr-wheels/#findComment-3466856
Share on other sites

ta for that.

Looks like a 285x35x18 is 2062mm and a 245x40x18 is 2052mm

So 285 mich pilot sport on rear and 245 bridgestone re55s on the front

So about 5 minutes with the 4WD fuse pulled and they will be about the same :-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193096-gtr-wheels/#findComment-3466960
Share on other sites

lol just like 20mm mades a big diff in the package stakes

Cheers BB

just measured they wheels on the car and they do have 20mm diff in fact the difference between the largest and smallest was 32mm, although they were on different sides. I dont remember having any issues with the 4wd system flashing at me or lighting up.

Worth a try i think.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193096-gtr-wheels/#findComment-3467115
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...