Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As do I mate.

I think the Stack and Defi would be the easiest to read on the fly, but all have warnings so it's not really an issue.

I'll check out what the Motec's are worth, but I dare say a lot, like everything else they make!

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The Defi does look more road than track, but if your going to drive on the street thats not a bad thing. The Defi it has high beam low beam and indicators as opposed to the XML and the Stack so I suspect running one of those units without fitting indicators etc is a "defect". Installing the lights in the dash surround will require a bit of futsing about but not a big problem. The XML pista looks like the best value

Yeah, the Defi and MXL offer similar value I think, as both have full logging features, and every reading necessary.

To get the same sort of functionality in the Stack is a lot more expensive. It's another $850 to get a lap timing feature!

The car is still registered, so having indicators as well as high/low beam and a fuel readout is still very beneficial, but both can be adapted on the Stack and MXL units. The defi may look more road than track, but it has all the same features as the other units.

Thanks Duncan.

The price I put up for the MXL includes all sensors I need ie oil pressure, fuel pressure, egt temp, oil temp, water temp, boost, lap timing beacon etc, as does the Defi.

The Stack needs fuel pressure added, as well as timing gear, and I'd run an independant boost guage. This is where the cost starts to rival the others, and doesn't seem like such good value anymore.

  • 1 year later...

I know this is an old thread but was wondering if anyone has any new experiences in the last 12 months or so. I'm not a fan of bulk guages either and befor i put the engine back in the car I wanna get something in place now so the senders will be easier to fit while the engine's on the engine stand.

I'm running a D-jetro Power FC and want the usual info like water, exhust, oil temp, Oil, fuel presures and possibly boost.

The defi definatly looks the goods as i like that it retains the indercators and stuff cause the car is still registered. But the price with the exchange rate right now would maybe put it beyond what I can justifie.

What a good time to rejig this thread. I have been agonizing over this for the last 3 weeks.

I have a special need as I want to interface the display with the M800 Motec i have via the CAN buss.

The cheapest Motec is the SDL which is $2500 odd and very no frills. There is a new MXL display called the Strada which is identical to the PISTA but a lot cheaper with no track mapping. Both these units interface through CAN interface or Serial to your ECU. There is another from the UK by a company called racesepc called a DASH 2. But the digits dont seem very clear on that one.

IMO all these units are TOO small. The Stack looks good to me but its a stupid price.

So far I have bought a Shift-I rev display and am looking for a 5 inch tach. But the stumbling block now is I need a 2 line serial or CAN interface 2 line data module like the Motec MDD But without the stupid $1500 price tag. I dont want to duplicate all the engine sensors with another stand alone solution when the ECU already has the data.

I think ergonomically the STACK unit is closest to what i need. But it is a ridiculous price.

Also, I have heard the data rate of the MXL systems is a bit slow to update the screen. But I havent seen one to confirm that yet.

If anyone knows of a 2 line data display that can interface via Serial or CAN please let me know As I am running out of options.

Edited by Tektrader69

If you want the simplicity that a BUS system like CAN offers you are going to have to use the Motec system complete, as I am unaware of too many aftermarket manufacturers using a data bus systems(Even though the auto industry has had it for well over ten years) , especially if you are worrying about budget!

IMO all these units are TOO small. The Stack looks good to me but its a stupid price.

Dont get too carried away with size. Review some manuals and transpose their size onto some cardboard then have a play and see where you plan to fit it. The dash fnction is handy but truth is it is mostly wank. You need the warning lights for the channels, you need the lap timer and the shift lights are handy. You dont get a chance to read or even look at the other guff while you are on track...provided the warning lights dont flash then you just keep your foot into it. The important thing is the data you log which you then look at when you are back in the pts/home

I run the AiM MyChron Gold 3 because it offered more features then the MXL at the time and it is easier to package. The Pi unit i am looking is the X-Sport which bolts to the steering wheel hub and mounts on the steering wheel. Powerful unit and easy to install and package into a raod car

This Racepac UDX dash looks quite good. Shame it uses external sensors. Its quite big as well and only USD $700

Probably work out cheaper than quality guages.

http://www.racepak.com/Drag_Racing/UDX.php

I can alarm all the functions I want in the MOTEC and use the shift light indicator to display all alarms etc.

But I need a display I can use to page through to find out whats wrong.

Edited by Tektrader69

i have installed the AIM or haltech dash into a few cars before.

it is a pretty orsome unit. it is pretty much stand alone, takes CAM interfaces, and can be calibrated to accept any types of sender units.

one that we did was in a race car and went along side a haltech e11v2. it only used about 3 inputs from the ecu and the rest were from VDO sender units. that means easy to buy in australia. at the time of install it was only using minimal functions but it can data log any thing from lap speed to suspension travel ect. (that one is the top end model)

another friend of mine got a AIM out of the USA a lot cheaper than they were available in aus. he put it in a crazy street 180sx. he got every thing on the car to work through the dash. stock speedo sender, fuel sender, oil, temp ect. he was extremely happy with it. i have driven it myself and it is easy to read.

they also sell a carbon fiber panel that is designed for the dash to sit into then you just cut the carbon sheet to fit your stock dash cluster.

if i didnt like the look of 10 60mm gauges across my dash id defiantly buy the AIM dash

The UDX is now outdated, Racepak are really trying to push the IQ3, Link:http://www.racepak.com/Road_Racing/IQ3.php

It not only has the ability to plug directly into Haltech E11 ECUs, but able to add sensors by either buying a 4port USM (around $200) in which you buy the sensor cable (about $4/m) and let the USM do the conversion, or you buy the plug 'n play sensor harness (around $200 I believe) that just daisy chains together onto the back of the dash.

I've been looking into these recently and will be buying one in the new year..

I was a bit stunned to see the Haltech Street,Track & Pro Dash's and Aim MXL range are identical! only difference is price and the badge on the dash LOL

Plus was glad to see that you can run any ecu with either dash!

Does anyone find the display hard to see at times?

I like the Haltech Track dash ...I was going to go for the Aim Mychron 3 XG Log. but I have been put off the MYchon version as most said was very small unit..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...