Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm interested to see how your's goes Simon. I was very impressed with a mates 2835proS and am interested to see if you end up with similar numbers and boost response

My understanding is that the casting is a copy of the OP6 housing. And that was from the source.

A photo of the dump flange area including the wastegate should assist. ;)

Either way, you won't have a dog. Interested to see how it goes.

Edited by Dale FZ1
the GCG rear housing is a copy of the Pro S rear housing, so in theory i have a HKS turbo lol.

So far seems reall responsive! time will tell.... i'll post up results soon

Unfortunately not. ;)

As Dale has said its the OP6 housing which has an a/r of 7. according to Bill down at ATS anyway.

I've attached a couple pics of the outlet of a GT3037ProS and a GT2835ProS.

post-382-1197068992_thumb.jpg

post-382-1197069001_thumb.jpg

Thanks Cubes , the viewers at home will be able to plainly see the difference in the size and location of the turbine outlet hole . Just in case last night was a big one look at how close the outlet hole in in relation to the sealing groove on the 3037 Pro S (right hand pic) . It really drives home the difference in exducer size between the cropped and standard GT30 turbines . I really would have liked a good second hand 3037 Pro s housing in the smaller 0.68 A/R size but can't locate one for reasonable money , and thats why I'm looking at 2835 Pro S housings and the cropped GT30 cartridges in smaller than 56 compressor trims . At least the 2835 IW housings are availabe 2nd hand from time to time .

As a heads up Geoff Raicer (Full Race in the US) sent me a message yesterday about a twin scroll GT3071R (-23 version) he supplied to a "drift professional" along with his manifold and gates for an RB25 powered R33 . The customer had been using a GT3582R on some form of HKS manifold but was really wrapt with the spool response and torque of the new components . Geoffs been asking for dyno graphs but has none yet .

Anyhow great news but no use to those not wanting to spend lots or use external wastegates .

Cheers A .

my results.... 283 rwkw!

been a LONG day and just about every thing that could go wrong, did go wrong... Got there at 10 and i left at 430 lol... poor Jeff had his work cut out for him but the result is an amazing 283 rwkw's with 11.5 AFR's, 20 psi boost (ouchy i know... overboost issues) and the surprise is... still stock injectors!!!!! Using a malpassi rising rate FPR which bumps the rail pressure up a bit.

started off making 240 rwkw straight out the box... no tune etc, then we hooked up the fuel flow/pressure tester to set up the malpassi... found that the flow was dropping right off as soon as you load it up...the pressure was there but the flow was dying off.

Got a walbro in there atm, which is rated to 500 hp didnt think this would be the prob, but after checking voltages, and changing the fuel filter which was dirty as f**k (looks to be the orig japanese filter) the bullet was bit and a Bosch motorsport was put in, did a few more dyno runs after Jeff changed all the settings and it started going from 250, 260, 270 rwkw after each change... incredible stuff!

boost is spiking to 20psi and theres dick all i can do about it atm.. even with the gate flap held open it stil goes to 1 bar ish. I know a lot of people have had overboosting issues with the GT3037r as they have a tiny wastegate flap, however mine has the much larger flapper and a different rear housing (.71AR) so not sure whats going on there, its not the dump pipe as the flap is opening right out so i think the only thing i can do is to bore out the gate port some more. or external gate.

i also snapped the wastegate actuator arm.... more dicking around on the dyno, umm few other littler things went wrong lol had cooler pipes pop off every 2nd run... fixing that right now, just got home and waiting for the car to cool down lol.

All in all, jeff is tops, turbo tune blokes are awesome, and 25's with 20psi bloody PULL HAAAAAAAAARD!

Great news Simon, congrats!

Is there a thread where i can find full details on your car?

What is response/boost threshold like?

Is there a 3076 that would have good response without the overboost issues, whilst remaining internally gated?

-Ryan

Simon.

Awesome result!!!!

My guess is the split dump setup isn't helping boost creep. The flap opens and partially blocks the usual 2" pipe.

The only way to get around it is to either run a bell mouth OR design the split dump as HKS do and match the waste pipe inlet to the flange.

When I get home I'll post a pic of a HKS split dump and you'll see the difference in design.

With my GT3076r (gt3037) I was warned by Sean (boostworx) to run with a bell mouth otherwise I would most definitely run in to boost creep issues using the usual 2" wastegate pipe without massaging it out to the flange which is almost impossible with the xr6t rear flange. I went with his suggestion and its all good. No creep. ;)

hmm still not convinced its the dump tho... i mean the split dump i have has had a lot of effort put into the wastegate pipe and the pipe and hole is much larger then the screamer, it comes no where near the flap also so the gas has plenty of room to make an exit.

im starting to think that the turbine housing needs to come off and die grind the gate port out more.

i need to get that boost down... 20 psi is a fair wack

ucd15r33 has the GCG version of this turbo with the .63 exhaust housing and he made 251kw at about 16psi, with stock injectors maxing out and only a basic tune on the emanage. he did suffer from a bit of a boost drop off at high rpm. but it was much better than 215kw we made a week or 2 before that when the rear honey comb of the cat has broken away and turned sideways so the cat was pretty much blocked. at open boost it would spool up to 17psi and by 6500rpm it was down to 12psi. the 215kw was made at about 5500rpm and 14psi.

hmm still not convinced its the dump tho... i mean the split dump i have has had a lot of effort put into the wastegate pipe and the pipe and hole is much larger then the screamer, it comes no where near the flap also so the gas has plenty of room to make an exit.

im starting to think that the turbine housing needs to come off and die grind the gate port out more.

Sounds like you've done well then, not just the usual slap bang split effort. :D

DYNO SHEET OR BAN!!! :D

you've got to do something about that boost response :D Nice peak, now you just need to get the full 20psi in earlier and fill in the mid range hole.

If the early ramp up onto boost is anything to go by you should be able to gain heaps of midrange.

yeah i know, the acuator is backed RIGHT off, as in its bearly holding the flap closed atm (no preload) as with preload it ramps up and spikes to over 20psi.. so this is the only way we can keep it safe atm.

once the overboost issue is fixed, prweload added, the thing is going to ramp up shitloads quicker..

however as it is, it drives well, and doesnt break traction at all lol

boost is spiking to 20psi and theres dick all i can do about it atm.. even with the gate flap held open it stil goes to 1 bar ish.

Looking at the graph, it seems to me that boost isn't "spiking" as much as taking a leisurely ramp up to 20psi where it's holding steady over a fairly wide band at higher rpm. The initial knee is pretty much the same shape as a stocker, which points to good/easy/quick response.

That it is holding so steady at 20psi (once it gets there) makes me think it's not necessarily "creeping" either - if there was a problem with adequate venting of waste gases then you'd be more likely to see it steadily running higher and higher. It makes me think that the control of turbine speed at that level is actually quite effective.

All of which leads me to ask: what is the actuator rated at; and what (if any) additional system are you using ie. turbotech pneumatic bleed, EBC, etc? Maybe there's some change necessary in that area? Like BHDave said - sort out that mid range area and it'd be hard to knock.

BTW, top result - the peak number is about 15 - 20kW higher than I'd have expected one of these units to achieve. :D I'd had comments from GCG that your specs should yield somewhere near 280ish, but I wasn't convinced it could. Thanks for sharing the results.

Now all I want to see is how Gary Dawson gets on with his, and for you to sort out that boost control with further feedback of on-road and on-track experiences.

cheers

Edited by Dale FZ1
my results.... 283 rwkw!

been a LONG day and just about every thing that could go wrong, did go wrong... Got there at 10 and i left at 430 lol... poor Jeff had his work cut out for him but the result is an amazing 283 rwkw's with 11.5 AFR's, 20 psi boost (ouchy i know... overboost issues) and the surprise is... still stock injectors!!!!! Using a malpassi rising rate FPR which bumps the rail pressure up a bit.

started off making 240 rwkw straight out the box... no tune etc, then we hooked up the fuel flow/pressure tester to set up the malpassi... found that the flow was dropping right off as soon as you load it up...the pressure was there but the flow was dying off.

Got a walbro in there atm, which is rated to 500 hp didnt think this would be the prob, but after checking voltages, and changing the fuel filter which was dirty as f**k (looks to be the orig japanese filter) the bullet was bit and a Bosch motorsport was put in, did a few more dyno runs after Jeff changed all the settings and it started going from 250, 260, 270 rwkw after each change... incredible stuff!

boost is spiking to 20psi and theres dick all i can do about it atm.. even with the gate flap held open it stil goes to 1 bar ish. I know a lot of people have had overboosting issues with the GT3037r as they have a tiny wastegate flap, however mine has the much larger flapper and a different rear housing (.71AR) so not sure whats going on there, its not the dump pipe as the flap is opening right out so i think the only thing i can do is to bore out the gate port some more. or external gate.

i also snapped the wastegate actuator arm.... more dicking around on the dyno, umm few other littler things went wrong lol had cooler pipes pop off every 2nd run... fixing that right now, just got home and waiting for the car to cool down lol.

All in all, jeff is tops, turbo tune blokes are awesome, and 25's with 20psi bloody PULL HAAAAAAAAARD!

Hey Simon

Are you still running a the R32 ECU or did you move to a power FC? I am just in the process of tuning my 25 with a 32 ecu also.

Cheers Ants

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...