Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I been looking around and cant make up my mind on what oil cooler to get for my RB30DET..

I dont care about the looks, i dont need fancy fittings, but i dont want it to break or leak EVER.

I dont know if i should go one of the just jap $400 kits or grab one of the cheapie ones available.... anyone had any experience with both ?

How many rows is good enough ? I wont be doing much track racing to start with but i will be going for a quarter mile down at WSID in the next month or so...

Car has 363rwkw and im still using the stock oil cooler that rb25's have.

any suggestions welcome

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193732-which-oil-cooler-setup-to-buy/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i would also like to know the difference between the branded oil cooler kits and the cheapie ones????

I have installed a Trust 13 core oil cooler and relocator on my 32 GTR.

It came with all the hardware needed to install, earls fittings, air deflector and a thermostat on the oil filter relocator ( I have not seen any thermostat on the cheapy ones), no extra hardware need.

The difference in the oil temps are great, went to DECA and TEXI and the temp did not go over 90 degrees.

Hope this helps

I have installed a Trust 13 core oil cooler and relocator on my 32 GTR.

It came with all the hardware needed to install, earls fittings, air deflector and a thermostat on the oil filter relocator ( I have not seen any thermostat on the cheapy ones), no extra hardware need.

The difference in the oil temps are great, went to DECA and TEXI and the temp did not go over 90 degrees.

Hope this helps

Thankyou for the input. It helps alot.

Yeh i was just looking at some of the products available and it looks like most of the cheapie ones come with just the basic setup wheres brands like Trust have created complete kits that include pretty much everything needed. How much did you pay?

Thankyou for the input. It helps alot.

Yeh i was just looking at some of the products available and it looks like most of the cheapie ones come with just the basic setup wheres brands like Trust have created complete kits that include pretty much everything needed. How much did you pay?

I payed $860 delivered from Nengun at Feburary 07, the AUD is great to purchase from Japan. Just checked Nengun site and they cost around $600 plus freight.

I payed $860 delivered from Nengun at Feburary 07, the AUD is great to purchase from Japan. Just checked Nengun site and they cost around $600 plus freight.

cheers mate :) will check it out now.

I would go the earls blocks around 120 for both i think maby bit more

then hit up http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Engine-oil-cooler_W...1QQcmdZViewItem

that is identical to the B and M coolers for around 130, but hey use a SAE thread not NPT but no biggie.

Then use some fittings and rubber lines. Earls thermostat if you heart so desires.

I would go the earls blocks around 120 for both i think maby bit more

then hit up http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Engine-oil-cooler_W...1QQcmdZViewItem

that is identical to the B and M coolers for around 130, but hey use a SAE thread not NPT but no biggie.

Then use some fittings and rubber lines. Earls thermostat if you heart so desires.

sounds like a good idea! :) will compare prices of the two. that way seems loads cheaper.

thanks man.

Sounds like you're serious about protecting your investment.

None of the cheap kits around fitted my idea of rock solid, and the Jap ones are way over priced, carrying an insane amount of mark up.

I liked the look of a certain chunky CNC cut take off and adapter that I saw on full house drag cars, PAC cars, etc etc years ago. Took ages to find them, they're the same bits sold here

I grabbed the block take off and filter head from ARE plus a Earls -10 AN fitting for a pressure sender. I then picked the oil cooler of choice, few $100 bux of aircraft fittings later and some hose and hey presto! It's the most hardcore, solid solution I could think of.

I later found out, that Earls actually make the billet bits, so you can import em from the US for almost nothing with the way the Ozzi dollar is now :)

No way would I use a cheap $400 kit with the above available, I don't give a shite that people have been running em for years with no issues. Def a case of pay now, save later.

Edited by GeeTR
Sounds like you're serious about protecting your investment.

None of the cheap kits around fitted my idea of rock solid, and the Jap ones are way over priced, carrying an insane amount of mark up.

I liked the look of a certain chunky CNC cut take off and adapter that I saw on full house drag cars, PAC cars, etc etc years ago. Took ages to find them, they're the same bits sold here

I grabbed the block take off and filter head from ARE plus a Earls -10 AN fitting for a pressure sender. I then picked the oil cooler of choice, few $100 bux of aircraft fittings later and some hose and hey presto! It's the most hardcore, solid solution I could think of.

I later found out, that Earls actually make the billet bits, so you can import em from the US for almost nothing with the way the Ozzi dollar is now :)

No way would I use a cheap $400 kit with the above available, I don't give a shite that people have been running em for years with no issues. Def a case of pay now, save later.

spot on mate

exactly what I'm chasing - or have in mind.

hope i can gather the same stuff you had collected for yours.

other than that. sounds like I am going down that road. too right. "pay now save later"

Hey GeeTR,

what is the part in that pic with TDS01 on it?

I want an oil cooler but without the relocation. Where can i get a quality block that goes under the stock oil filter and lets me attach 2 lines, a cooler and some sort of fitting for oil pressure.

thanks fellas

Hey GeeTR,

what is the part in that pic with TDS01 on it?

I want an oil cooler but without the relocation. Where can i get a quality block that goes under the stock oil filter and lets me attach 2 lines, a cooler and some sort of fitting for oil pressure.

thanks fellas

VPW

Holley

SummitRacing

That part is Earls thermostat or "oil stat" - again available from the above links. Look around, you might find that you can order it cheaper from US rather then locally.

Look around, I considered the Pommy gear Aeroquip

Edited by GeeTR

the best i have seen and used is trust. good strong cores, well made, well designed kits, and price is not too bad. worth every penny. I have one on my 32 GTR.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...